Motors?
Looking to get a new or rebuilt Long block motor that is up too 3k, who makes stroked 331 or 347 crates motors? i was also looking at the Ford Racing 302 that comes with 345hp, and was also told to look at DSS motors. I want a motor that i can put some miles on and still run some good numbers at the track, and i dont want spark knock so i need a 93 oct rated motor.
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I had a solid roller 308 (.040 over) in my old siver car and it was a screamer. I don't have the cam specs on hand, but it managed to run on pump gas just fine with no detonation. Keep in mind, you pay for the raped ape performance of a solid roller cam with the constant checking/ajusting of valve lash and not being able to just idle your car infinately due to the stiff valvesprings. IMHO, I am not a big fan of the stroker motors. I dig the fast revving short rod motors that don't chew themselves up and can actually rev very high. I think they are just more fun in a light car.
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First off, you are not going to find a complete longblock for $3k. I have researched this for many years now and I am about to finalize my next motor plans, you can count on spending at least $5k for anything decent when it comes to strokers or real high output motors. And then you have to worry about things like clutches, transmissions, rearends, etc..
As far as solid cams go regarding valve lash, that is only a problem if you do not know how to do it correctly (no flame). I had this same debate with Dave Piercey and he told me about several customer cars with solid cams that have had no need for adjustment after the first check. Most of these are 3+ years old. They still come in once and a while for a check and they have always been right on. It is definitley a skill that has to be honed over many years.
What exactly are you looking for as far as e.t.'s go ?
As far as solid cams go regarding valve lash, that is only a problem if you do not know how to do it correctly (no flame). I had this same debate with Dave Piercey and he told me about several customer cars with solid cams that have had no need for adjustment after the first check. Most of these are 3+ years old. They still come in once and a while for a check and they have always been right on. It is definitley a skill that has to be honed over many years.
What exactly are you looking for as far as e.t.'s go ?
I agree with you on the solid roller debate, Scott. I did mine once after 500 miles and checked it again at 1000 and they were still spot on. Usually one should expect to do the valve lash a few times before the motor is totally broken in. I would have been super anal retentive and checked mine every oil change, but the motor never got that far. Damn you, FPS.
i was gonna do the motor with stock manifold, tb, and mass air. Then in a month or two i was gonna go bigger, and im looking to run high 11's low 12's on drag radials when all is said and done. Ive been told by people i can get a rebuilt stroker motor for 2500-3k, but i checked dss racing and they want over 5k like you said with victor jr heads.
so far this is the best i have found for 3k,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=17229
i will be getting it with the E303 cam since it is goin to be NA.
so far this is the best i have found for 3k,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=17229
i will be getting it with the E303 cam since it is goin to be NA.
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my motor has rings that are going and a stripped out drain plug, and im not going to rebuild it or lift out the motor just for a new oil plan. thats why i wanted the built motor and prolly put a little spray on it. id be happy with low-mid 12's. i think with that motor plus intake manifold, tb, mass air, injectors, spray, and drag radials that i should be there if not better.
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rebuild your existing motor.. new rings, etc.
I had a decent 302 built with Iron heads (dart jrs.) and ran low 13s in street trim (read 17" wheels, road racing susp, etc)
302 + Freshened bottom end+ better hardware+decent set of heads+better induction system + small shot O juice = low 12's high 11s...
just talk to Joe@ fordspeed, he's running 11.60's on a stock bottomed 302 @ 3000lbs.. he's posted his power numbers out here, there is a lot you can do with a 302...
I had a decent 302 built with Iron heads (dart jrs.) and ran low 13s in street trim (read 17" wheels, road racing susp, etc)
302 + Freshened bottom end+ better hardware+decent set of heads+better induction system + small shot O juice = low 12's high 11s...
just talk to Joe@ fordspeed, he's running 11.60's on a stock bottomed 302 @ 3000lbs.. he's posted his power numbers out here, there is a lot you can do with a 302...


