Need to do pads and turn rotors.. Looking for upgrades..

Ive heard some use the 96 Explorer rear pads/shoes.. is there any advantage to this over the rear disc setup from an SN95? Will it be a fitment issue with Welds?

My problem is trap speed approaching 150 MPH..

Thanks guys.. out of the tranny shop tomorrow..

 

Well worth it
Ford Racing Black Cobra Brake Upgrade Kit (Rear Only) at AmericanMuscle.com - Discontinued

if you can still find them, it seems that Ford is only making parts for about 2 weeks now before discontinuing them

 

with out breaking the bank ......the earlier lsc rear brakes have a wide vented rotor and i almost positive that the calipers/brackets /rotors will work with the mounts on the rear you have

 

I used the M-2300-M kit and I understand the rear calipers for GT and Cobras are the same. Pads are thinner for a Cobra????

Summit has this listed for $175 and it shows that it ships today. It has everything needed to upgrade a GT to Cobra rears.

And it is all Ford gear!

BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What axles are you running? What wheels?

This may not work for your app. I have stock Fox width axles with North Race Cars custom backing plates, so I could keep the rear track narrow (running 18 X 9 wheels) used the M-2300-M kit and the red Bullit rear calipers.

In the front I have the M-2400-C kit with the Bullit pony calipers on 95 GT spindles.

LSC/SVO type master cyl, some Maximum Motorsports adaptor items and manual porportioning valve.

It stops so hard it will make you puke!

 

Ben Thanks.. One issue I have to consider is the 15 inch wheel.. thats a big problem as it wont allow a larger rotor.

Great Tip.. You mean like a MKVII or MKVI? I'll call you this am.. found the scrubbing noise :/

Thanks for the link.. I have Cobra rear brakes already..

 

Aftermarket brakes!! I picked up a complete set of Aerospace for $1k

 

OK, a couple of things, when I saw your "trap speed" as approaching 150 I was thinking that you had a drag car. Now that I see you have Cobra brakes I'm beginning to think you have a road race car. FWIW, drag and autocross cars (because heat is not an issue) can benefit from the lighter weight of (factory) drum brakes. assuming you already have drums on the rear, you could rebuild them and remove the self-adjusters, drill holes in the drum and backing plates to make them even lighter and run a very aggressive brake shoe that does not need warming up. This is better than the factory discs since the drums can be adjusted to not drag at all, unlike the discs. This is tech circa 1975, but is still valid today if you're on a budget. The trick way to go is with drag race oriented spot brakes or some other late model aftermarket brake design, this would be more expensive, but would also work better. Since they are built for the drags they won't slow the car down by dragging the pad.
As far as road racing goes then, especially if you already have cobra brakes, I would suggest a more aggressive pad (Hawk performance brakes) and going to an adjustable proportioning valve, because it sounds like the front brakes need to be doing a little extra work.
Google
After the Cobra brakes you go into aftermarket territory, I'm sure you can find something here, remember the bigger the bore the more clamping force you will have, so even if the caliper is the standard size on the outside, it's the bore that really matters. I'm sure you can find something here, I tend to prefer Wildwood over Baer, but they both make good products.
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Calipers

BTW, approaching 150 with a relatively heavy car, (at some drag strips), it may be time to start considering some kind of "plan B" like a chute.
good hunting

 

I'm more scared of caliper, pad, rotor issues. I've had several friends have these brakes come apart. One it happened on his front when a caliper bolt sheered. Another had caliper hanging issues(Chris Escobar.. true street..) Saw him nursing the and playing around with the caliper. A lot of guys go to these setups for weight reasons.. They also favor way lighter cars. And 1K.. thats what the parachute setup is going to cost.. Just sucks the thought of drilling a hole in the back bumper cover

Thanks for the post. car is used for drag racing but I could care less of weight as an issue. Reliability is the key item with me. The OEM stuff is just plain awesome.. Would be neat to have dual calipers.. make a bracket..

Yes on plan B.. the parachute mount should be ready this weekend.. I need to select the chute.. i'm favoring the Stroud.. i'll use a modified e-brake handle for deployment.

thanks guys..

Julio

 

Alot of people bolt things on and assume they dont need any maintence until there is an issue. Out of the thousands of sets of aftermarket brakes in use, a issue here or there isnt too bad.