is better to go the stock glass route or something like some lexan glass.weekend toy not for the daliy driver.

 

I personally wouldnt remove any weight from the rear bro, car is already going to be front heavy

 

i said the samething when he wanted a fiberglass hatch.

harold its already light as hell whats it weight 2500lbs

bro get that thing running so we can put them on the dyno

 

it weights some wheres around that.the back glass is not going to make that much of a diff.i just figured since it is broke why not send the cash on a lexan glass instead of the stock stuff.plus my car is light as fuck up front.theres nothing there heavy except for the block.

 

exactly the front to rear percentages will be way off. even on a "driver", I would strive to keep it balance front to rear, Even if it meant adding weight to the rear. Otherwise, its going to be a nose heavy pig and wont handle for crap

 

OK it would be nice to have the percentages where they need to be, but an overall lighter car will have more options for moving weight around. If this is a drag car, glass weight, that high in the chassis may not be a bad thing, however, if it was road raced,then definitely ditch the glass. One of my old 56 Chevy drag cars was a station wagon (of all things) and we scraped the undercoating from the entire front of the car, leaving it in the rear to get the correct weight bias. This was the hot setup for a "stock" class car in the 70s. Since you obviously aren't running a "stock" class then i would be up for making the entire car as light as possible, then moving ballast around where I need it.
BTW: Harwood - The Most Respected Name in Fiberglass!

 

Lexan is a pain in the ass...scratches fiarly easy, changes colors after a few years and glare is a biaotch., just to name a few.

 

put a new glass in today.te factory glass is light weight.i don"t c why every says the y are heavy.it couldn" have weighore then 3-5 pounds.the hatch is reallylight to.