dropping my front end tommor with eibach sportline springs, what are the best caster and camber plates to use and are they a bitch to install?

 

In all honesty you wont need cc plates with Sportline springs. You will need the camber adjusted 'slightly',.. but the caster and toe alignments should not need to be touched.

This is my wife old 96 Cobra. It had Eibach Pro springs on it when we first got it. We then changed to Sportlines which lowered the car and stiffened the ride even more than with the Pro springs. My wife loved it but I kept complaining about how stiff the ride was,.. so we swapped to H&R sport springs which were about the same ride height,.. maybe 1/4" lower than the Sportlines. We ran 17x9 wheel with 275/40 tires up front and 17x10.5 with 315/35 tires out back.

The car did not need CC plates. I did have a Steeda bump steer kit on the front,.. but it turned out the car was not experiencing bumpsteer. Rather it was the choice of wide wheels up front that liked to chase the grooves in the road. Modifying the caster helped with that problem,.. but created a stiffer steering feel as a result.





.

And as you can see in this pic,.. there were no CC plates installed. The car handled like it was on rails. 100% better than my GT. My wife ran this car at Sebring, earned her solo license in it and did a few auto-x courses here and there with it.


.

Swapping springs is very easy to do. If you need some pointers to making it easier to do just ask.

Hurst

 

hey thanx greatly

 

I don't see him attaining 5 degrees of positive Caster with the factory crap hardware? negative 1 degree of Camber won't be easy either..

 

Why does he need 5 deg of positive caster? Thats not factory spec,.. neither is -1 camber,.. though -1 deg is perfectly attainable with out CC plates as my my wife's Cobra above was set to -1 deg camber. -1 deg camber causes the inside edge of the tire to wear faster than the rest during regular street driving. It only serves an advantage on the track and creates problems on wet roads during rain storms. The front wheels are more prone to slide on slick roads during hard braking with -1 deg camber. Lowering a car with a strut suspension creates neg camber on its own. If he has stock springs and puts those Sportlines on,.. he should be sitting at -1.25º of camber if he had a stock alignment.

5 deg of pos caster will make the steering considerably stiffer than stock and returns to center much too quickly for my tastes when letting go of the wheel. Can be awkward for a driver not prepared for that type of reaction.

Factory specs are as follows. (For 94 - 04 GT's)

(Camber) -0.50º +/- 0.75º
(Caster) 3.2º +/- 0.75º
(Toe in) 0.25º +/- 0.75º Forida roads are beveled. A typical Florida spec would be 0.09º for the left wheel 0.12º for the right wheel.

The CC plates offer no more camber than the factory plates do. Inside lock to outside lock,.. you cant get any more then that even with plates. They do aid in creating more caster. I have never been a fan of severe positive caster. Doesnt feel natural to me. I like a smooth predictable steering wheel.

Hurst

 

Steeda X2 Balljoint Kit for 1994 thru 2004 Ford Mustang 555-8101

Steeda Bumpsteer Kits for Ford Mustang 555-8103 555-8104 555-8105 555-8106

IMO parts you will definitely need to make that combo work. You can probably find the part number for the ball joint and buy a cheaper version at NAPA.





This is my car with the exact combination you have, later, when I added the bumpsteer kit and more importantly the ball joints, the car reacted entirely different, those two items, with the springs were the two best improvements I ever made as far as handling is concerned (except for the IRS swap later). I do not need camber plates to get decent adjustments, either agressive or near stock, the ball joints are the key. The situation is the roll center, you want the roll center to be as low as possible, but when you lower the mustang the roll center is actually inches into the asphalt which makes for dicey handling , in my case snap oversteer. While I agree with Hursty 99.9 percent of the time, I do a lot of racing as well, I, with no disrespect to Hurst, think my way works better.

 

I don't use factory specs, haha!

 

Maximummotorsports.com

end of conversation...

 

Well not everyone can afford to dump a bunch of money into a Griggs or MM suspension, others are limited by the rules in which they run. So yeah, it's good stuff, no question, but is not and end all.

 

You can get their 4 bolt CC plates for under $200? one of the best Mods you can do for these cars, I love mine set at 4.5+ caster/.9 negative camber..