My 1969 Mustang Coupe:
250 CID In-line 6 Cylinder
I'm originally planning on keeping this motor. It's the original. I believe it adds class and defiantly doesn't fit the 5.0 mold.


My problem right now is:
I just have to find someone who can tune carbs very well, and find a good brake kit for my fronts.
If anyone knows anything about the brakes or carb tuning please replay or anything


Thanks guys.


Replaced:
-Carburetor
-Battery and Starter relay
-Starter
-Battery/Starter/Ground Wires
-Fuel pump
-Spark plugs (Gap'ed .055")

Mods so far:
DUI Performance distributor in blue [Wired threw a relay]
Livewire Sparkplug wires in blue as well


Plans:
-Turbo.. ohh yes turbo
-Manual transmission. 5 spd
-Looking into machining the integral log intake off, so I can add an aftermarket intake manifold for alot better performance, as the intake is a HUGE cut back for this motor
-Bore/Stroke/Cam shaft
-New radiator
-Upgrade rear end
-Upgrading the tires and wheels
-Upgrade brakes
-Repaint
-New hood
-Fixing interior/windows
-Digital dash maybe
-more to come

[ATTACH=CONFIG]149788[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]149789[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]149790[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]150004[/ATTACH]

 

Check the placement of wires on,or condition of, the starter solenoid.

 

Sounds like the starter solenoid is stuck. The Autozone and other parts houses solenoids are cheap and tend to weld themselves together. Get a real Ford one if that's not what you have on there.

 

I've replaced the starter solenoid 5 times now, If I disconnect the starter cable from it, and put the keys to run it clicks. which it shouldn't do.
When I turn the keys to start, nothing happens tho.

I have the brown wire and the red /w blue wire, going to connections on the solenoid, brown is a constant as the red is the one coming from the ignition switch for the start position.

 

Where did you get the 5 solenoids?

On the solenoid, the little red and blue wire goes on the small stud. The wire to the starter goes on one of the large posts by itself...it doesn't matter which post. ALL the other wires go on the other post.

Give us a good closeup pic of your solenoid and the wiring.

 

Alright I will when I can.
I got them threw Advanced auto parts.
Yeah I know what your saying, the battery hooks up to the large posts along with some spliced wire, then theres 2 small studs, the red one goes on the side of the battery, and the brown on the firewall side, then the large post to the starter.

 

Yeah, I have replaced the solenoid with 3 Autozone ones in a row and they didn't work. Then I put on a junk yard one made by Ford and it worked fine. Some parts it doesn't make much of a difference who made them. But this one does. All that solenoid does is when you turn the key to "Start" it energizes the red/blue withe which energizes a little electromagnet inside the solenoid. That causes a big bar to slam into the 2 posts and complete the circuit to the starter to spin it. Whe you let off of the key, the electro magnet pulls the bar back down and breaks the circuit. and starter stops and backs out of the flywheel. If the starter stays engaged, it's because it has welded the bar to the posts and the circuit is closed because the electro magnet can't pull it back down. Reason is cheap solenoid.

The cheap shit can't stand up to the current. Get a Ford one. Get one like this, not that box looking Autozone thing in you picture...

 

I can't even get the key in start, as soon at I turn it into "Run" you can hear the solenoid click on, the red &blue wire becomes hot as well, I just don't know where it's getting power at.

 

I'd be willing to bet, the wires are crossed on the little posts

 

The early solonoid have 2 small posts and they both get used
Also that soloniod is mounted upside down