Still a little ways away, but I'm trying to find a good exhaust shop that is somewhat local to run the exhaust on my Ranger. I'd like to run it myself using a bend kit and some pipe, then send it out to be welded, but unfortunately there are going to be quite a few compound bends and I think its going to be out of my skill level. The shop needs to be reputable and willing to do it correctly.

Here are the requirements:
- Everything must be Mandrel Bent (I dont care if they bend it in house or order pre-bent pieces)
- Exhaust Must be Stainless

Essentially they are long tube headers with the tri-bolt flange. The exhaust will have to be kicked away from the trans (headers dump facing the trans). After that the Pass. side can be ran straight back (with the exceptions of dipping over the cross member). The Driver side will be the difficult side. It will need to cross over under the trans at some point (more than likely after the cross member). If thats the case the pipe will need to be bent to pass over the cross member as well as ducking underneath the trans just after it. The driver side has to cross over because of the fuel tank on the driver side. Both sides will be ran into stainless flowmasters and dumped before the rear end under the bed somewhere on the pass side.

Heres a pic underneath the truck (it has a diff cross member right now, its directly under the trans mount now).

 

Heres a shot similar to what I have in mind. Except my headers will make it a little more difficult upstream. I would like to make the transistion to the passanger side a little more gradual (like two 45's instead of two 90's).



This is exactly the same as my cross member in this picture.


but as mentioned. I'd like mine to be mandrel bent stainless and I want it to look professional. These look like backyard jobs...but the same general idea.

 

Glenn, did you do any research on how much it would cost to do stainless like you want? I'd bet 500 bucks your truck wouldn't make any more then maybe 5-10 horse over a "back yard" job, and the difference in cost is ridiculous.

Please don't take this a me being a dick, just trying to save you a shit load of money.


Shaun

 

huff muffler in plant city is pretty good. hes done a few of my dads cars

 

I've had 2 cars done by huff muffler now. Quality work!

 

I know that, I doubt there would be any difference in HP. People laugh at me because its a fuckin beat down Ranger. But thats how this whole engine swap has been themed. Everything is top shelf. I could have used a $50 spool of 3/8 hard line for the fuel system too, but its all Russell Pushlock and -AN fittings. There was no logical reason to use ARP on anything since its a 300 horse E7 headed motor, but shit even my motor mount bolts are ARP. I can't offer an explanation of why I do it, but I dont like to simply bolt something together just to have it fast. I'm that guy that spends 3 hours sanblasting and painting each part lol. Shit, with the money and time I've put in this little motor I could have had 500 horse.. Thats just the way I do stuff I guess.

Although I would consider letting that slip since its underneath the truck. Could build the 8.8 with the money I saved. How much would you think I would pay for a standard exhaust job on the truck? I know i'd have about $500 in just the stainless pipe before anyone even layed a torch to it...

 

I'm guessing you would want it tig welded? You would probably have 500-800 in to it.

Give these guys a call, I'm sure if you really wanted to do this they could give you a much better idea of cost.

813-531-2932 Pro-Fab

 

How much do you think I could get a nice quality Aluminized system done for?

Arn't you guys set-up for standard exhaust work (crush bender)? How much would you guys charge (roughly) to run a crush bent aluminized system on it?

Any pics of your exhaust work?

 

You have the collectors already right? 2 1/2? $150

 

Yeah, collectors came with my headers.