what should i do with this crank???
Team Geritol Racing
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89 2.3 91 SSP 5.0
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That is totally incorrect. Fresh or not, when the crank is installed and the main caps are torqued to spec, the crank should turn free. When you twist it by hand, it should be able to rotate by itself. If it doesn't, there is something wrong, bearing clearance to tight, bent crank, etc. I would assume the shop would have told you the crank was bent when they turned it down. Did you have the block align honed? Maybe it isn't a problem with the crank at all.
ok i bought this shortblock from someone. the block has arp main studs, not sure if the block was aligned honed when they were installed. cross hatch machine marks on mains looked pretty fresh. also the oil holes on the crank have been opened up for better oil flow....i wasnt the one who had the crank turned. this is, is I took this motor apart. it turned over pretty nicely when everything was together. i have had the crank out of the block for a while now. you guys think that could have bent it? either way something is wrong. and i know it.
i even tried to put the crank into another block with my bearings that the machine shop let be use, same problem.
you guys think its worth turning it down to like .020-.020 or should i just get a new crank? if i turn it more i have to buy new bearings. i will probably have to buy new ones anyway. no point to start out with ones that look like they got 10,000 miles on them lol
Thanks
Last edited by mustangman101; Jan 18, 2010 at 06:44 AM.
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Barring anything unusual, if it turned over before, then it is most likely you are doing something wrong today. Check the old main bearings and see if you can get a size. They are stamped std, .010, .020 to denote their undersizings. This way you an confirm you have the correct bearing.
If this drags on too far, you can get a black sharpie pen, and color in the bearing surfaces, and then assemble them one by one, rotating them between each cap install. The sharpie will leave a telltale where the rubbing is going on, and maybe give some insight was to what the issue is.
Brian
EFI-Unlimited
If this drags on too far, you can get a black sharpie pen, and color in the bearing surfaces, and then assemble them one by one, rotating them between each cap install. The sharpie will leave a telltale where the rubbing is going on, and maybe give some insight was to what the issue is.
Brian
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If this drags on too far, you can get a black sharpie pen, and color in the bearing surfaces, and then assemble them one by one, rotating them between each cap install.
banana republic
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Thread Starter
89 2.3 91 SSP 5.0
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
Barring anything unusual, if it turned over before, then it is most likely you are doing something wrong today. Check the old main bearings and see if you can get a size. They are stamped std, .010, .020 to denote their undersizings. This way you an confirm you have the correct bearing.
If this drags on too far, you can get a black sharpie pen, and color in the bearing surfaces, and then assemble them one by one, rotating them between each cap install. The sharpie will leave a telltale where the rubbing is going on, and maybe give some insight was to what the issue is.
Brian
EFI-Unlimited
If this drags on too far, you can get a black sharpie pen, and color in the bearing surfaces, and then assemble them one by one, rotating them between each cap install. The sharpie will leave a telltale where the rubbing is going on, and maybe give some insight was to what the issue is.
Brian
EFI-Unlimited
the bearing are the same size as the ones i removed. and like i said the guy at the machine shop said the mains and rods were .010 under.
the other day i sat the crank in the block with ONLY the 1st and 5th main bearing halves in the block.
i set a dial indicator on each of the 2nd,3rd,4th mains...and turned the crank and looked at the needle. it moved .003 down as i rotated the crank. and then back up when it came around.
that sounds like its bent to me. it did the same thing on each main.
banana republic
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Hey, if he would just put an f-ing carb on the damn thing, he wouldn't be HAVING this problem! LMAO!
I gota Cheby
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are you pushing the crank back and forth, make sure the thrust is right. Some times the crank isn't sitting in the right place, its to much on the sides. Where the bearing journal meets the throw. I hope you understand. 4-5 machine shops that i have seen will take a brass mallet and whach it a few times to get the right thrust clearance to check.
My 406 did that, wouldn't turn when assembling it and then my friend came over and whacked a few times back and forth to make sure it was sitting correctly inside the journals. makes sense?
My 406 did that, wouldn't turn when assembling it and then my friend came over and whacked a few times back and forth to make sure it was sitting correctly inside the journals. makes sense?
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Only 1/4 mile track I know is Gandy Bridge
Only 1/4 mile track I know is Gandy Bridge
Need To Get Quicker
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For starters, check out how much clearance you have on the main bearings and get back to us with the numbers?
