see we can all get along if we try rofl. sorry but getting a bit mad. so i will try my battery tomorrow since it's fresh ( 2 weeks old). THANKS HURST

 

And the verdict?

Hurst

 

battery...putting $100 on it.

 

has not been home in a while will check tomorrow and let you all know

 

ok well i went to a ford dealer today and they told me to just pick up a new clicker thing so i did for 50$ so now i have to walk over there and reset it. THey told me that the lockup and the tick tick comes from us not having that and the car being locked up so yeah i will see what;s up with that

 

"new clicker thing" And for $50?
How old are you?

Solenoids are $9 at the parts store.


Its your 'boyz' car and you had to go to the dealer? Is he handicapped? Does he have Polio? Allergic to dealer service reps? OCD?
The 'lock up' AND the 'click click' ?

Did you even try swapping the battery?

You cant even describe whats wrong with the car here on the forum,.. how did you explain it to a dealer service rep? I've got $50 that says he gave you the first thing on his mind just to get you out of there if that story is true.



I smell,....



I mean get real,.. how many monkeys does it take to change a tire?

Hurst

 

ok hurst went to the dealer today an got a new clicker or w.e you want to call it ok. well they told me that THE CLICKER was a problem due to the theft light blinking like no fucking tomorrow and yes the battery was dead. the car is now starting but it chokes up when it gets gas, also when reved to 5k rpm the throttle seemed to have no response any longer. we talked to several different mechanics and they said that it may be the TPS .... and that they don't sell them anymore. the car is running but like stated before it chokes up. The car has new plugs, wires, fuel pump & filter, belts, and Maf changed twice, and the egr. we are at out wits end. help !!!!!

 

he helped me with my problem and i explained it to him he knew what i was talking about. anyway..... what can ne the problem now that the battery issue has been fixed. thanks again hurst

 

Before reading anything below,.. get the car scanned. If its running that bad the check engine light is on and its thrown a gazillion codes. Get the codes. If you cant figure out the codes and what they mean,.. then read below.



Being a V6 Mustang I know F**K all about it except the basics.

So I'll treat it like it was a V8 and hopefully the same principles apply. And secondly,.. I'm not an EFI guy. I love carbs. I love the simplicity.. if there is a problem you know exactly where to look and there is no second guessing or chasing wires and sensors. But I do have some 'basic' EFI knowledge that any 'shade tree' or 'Honda boy' wanna be mechanics should understand.

If a V8 was breaking up or Choking,.. there is a difference. Choking usually comes from not enough fuel,.. breaking up is usually an ignition issue.

The first thing I would look at are the basics. (Fuel, and Spark). With out either,.. the car wont run.

Are all of the plug wires coming out of the coil pack going to the right cylinders? If not,.. there is your problem and "here's your sign". Are the plugs gapped correctly or were they just put in as they came out of the box? Were any of the electrodes broken or cracked during installation? If plugs and wires are correct,.. and dont assume,.. double check,.. then need to check for vacuum leaks. EFI does not like vacuum leaks,.. none. So if any hoses or grommets are loose,.. sticking or missing,.. and plugging off a vacuum line with a screw does not work with EFI,.. "Heres your sign". So make sure all vacuum lines, PCV, PCV grommet, IAC lines, EGR secondary vacuum lines, any of them. The car will run like crap with even a minor vacuum leak.

Exhaust leaks?
EFI engine with a MAF (MASS AIR FLOW) meter do not like any kind of exhaust leak before the O2's. This usually wont make the car run like crap,.. but I've never seen one with a severe leak,.. so who knows. Any kind of exhaust manifold leak before the O2's usually results in a CEL and a lean bank code. The O2's will read the exhaust gas as lean and will attempt to richen it up making the car actually run rich while it thinks its lean.

Next:
MAF sensor?
Should be 3 or 4 torx bit screws holding the sensor in the MAF housing. Inside is either 1 or 2 little hair thin wires. It reads the volume of incoming air. If the air filter hasnt been changed in a while or the air box is damaged or not closing correctly can cause the elements to become dirty and the car should resort to open loop where it runs straight from a predetermined fuel/ table based off of RPM vs throttle position. If the wires are dirty use a can of CRC electrode cleaner. Hold the can 10 - 12 inches away from the wires and spray lightly. Do not blow on the wires to dry them. You may accidently spittle on the wires. ALSO,... If you have a generic cheap ass CAI on there that is leaking air between the MAF housing and the throttle body,.. ANY KIND OF LEAK after the MAF housing,.. the car will run like crap.

O2's?
How many miles on the car? Jumped any curbs and scraped the bottom? O2's damaged? Check,.. make sure. If more then 80k miles chances are the the O2's are pretty dirty and need to be cleaned or replaced. They are not that expensive,.. I usually replace them at 100k just for peace of mind.

Connections,.. ? Plugs? Wires?
Check anything and everything. Assume a 5 yr old built the motor and check the entire engine wiring harness top to bottom. If a plug is loose on one of the crank triggers,.. engine is going to run like crap if it even runs at all.

Fuel filter? Engine starving for fuel? How much fuel pressure is in the fuel rail after the regulator? I dont know how much a 3.8 V6 needs. The 4.6 needs between 36 and 42 to run correctly. So I would say at least 30 - 38 for a V6. Dont trust my word because I dont know. Get a Chiltons or Haynes manual and find out for sure. The car is already fucked up,.. dont need to screw it up any more taking my word for something I am man enough to admit that I dont know. If the fuel pressure is not within specs find out why. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? Any kinks or dents in the fuel line? Ran over any curbs? Bottomed out the car? Ran over any dogs? Rare,.. but can happen. Check to make sure. If filter and lines are ok,.. chances are the fuel pump is taking a shit.

These are common things that any idiot with half an IQ should check. Its not rocket science. If you had a blonde moment and forgot how the plug wires went back on,.. then thats on you. You should not fuck with someone elses car when you dont know how it works. Before you attempted to repair the car you should have had the ECM scanned to find out what exactly was wrong with it BEFORE you started asking other people for advice when they have never looked at the car. Mechanics can only second guess a vehicle's problems,.. and the way you describe problems with elementary school "clicky clicking thing", "Tick tick" and "locked out" terminology,.. its a wonder you made it this far. Do the right thing and take the car to a mechanic. Fuck the dealers. Take it to a real shop with a real mechanic,.. and I dont mean Firestone or Pepboys where Joe Honda Boy who changes tires and now suddenly knows everything about all cars. Stay away from the franchised repair shops. They hire nothing but entry level mechanics looking to get their foot in the door. I'm talking about shops like Genium and American Street cars. They can fix your car for you at a reasonable price and with much less head ache then you guys trying to cheap out and do it yourselves,. who obviously dont have a clue. "Heres your sign".

Hurst

 

Yes i get what you mean. the problem is as you stated before...i never had an issue with my previous cars... i can do plugs and wires but i never checked codes for the mustang. the owner said he did and wrote them down. as for a mechanic i have somebody in mind. Thanks again for the help Hurst and sorry for getting off on the wrong foot