Back with new Questions :D
Hey guys, I know I'm going to be flamed a lot in here, but I figure at least some of you will give me some help since you have before.
Below is a picture of my block on the stand. I have degreased it and cleaned it up a lot from what it was when it was pulled, however, you see that orange lining, looks like rust, it keeps appearing around the motor. I Degrease, Spray Wash, and then dry with shop towels immediately, yet it still does it.

Also, what is best to be cleaning this block with? A Wire Brush? I was afraid I would scratch the surface areas and may mess something up.
Here is another picture of the inside of one of my cylinders, as you can see, we have some of that same orange surface rust, but it wipes away pretty easily, I just want to keep it gone so it's not there when I am trying to put this thing back together. Is there a recommendation on how to do this? Also, during the rebuild, I'm keeping everything stock as far as internals go except for new pistons (standard OEM size) Should I bore these cylinders out a little just to clean off the surfaces or do you think it will be okay? I Really don't have the money to do any type of machine shop boring, but I know I can get a bore tool and my power drill and do it that way if it's on a small scale.

Now, another question with no picture. I took my Crankshaft/Camshaft/Timing chain off the motor exactly how it was when I pulled it out. I did not make any adjustments, I did not turn it, etc. Before it goes back into the motor, do I need to make any adjustments to the Crank or Cam, or will I do that through the means of adjusting the timing once the Timing chain is back on?
LAST QUESTION with Picture. This is a picture of one of my cylinder heads as it came off the motor. I have really run dry as far as the budget is concerned on this car, I know I'm going to get flamed here, but if both cylinder heads look like this, does it appear I would need a valve job absolutely or is there a way I can clean them up? Also, when cleaning the cylinder heads, is it okay to do so when the valve springs, valves, etc. still there?

Rep will be given for the help in answering these questions! Thanks guys!
Below is a picture of my block on the stand. I have degreased it and cleaned it up a lot from what it was when it was pulled, however, you see that orange lining, looks like rust, it keeps appearing around the motor. I Degrease, Spray Wash, and then dry with shop towels immediately, yet it still does it.

Also, what is best to be cleaning this block with? A Wire Brush? I was afraid I would scratch the surface areas and may mess something up.
Here is another picture of the inside of one of my cylinders, as you can see, we have some of that same orange surface rust, but it wipes away pretty easily, I just want to keep it gone so it's not there when I am trying to put this thing back together. Is there a recommendation on how to do this? Also, during the rebuild, I'm keeping everything stock as far as internals go except for new pistons (standard OEM size) Should I bore these cylinders out a little just to clean off the surfaces or do you think it will be okay? I Really don't have the money to do any type of machine shop boring, but I know I can get a bore tool and my power drill and do it that way if it's on a small scale.

Now, another question with no picture. I took my Crankshaft/Camshaft/Timing chain off the motor exactly how it was when I pulled it out. I did not make any adjustments, I did not turn it, etc. Before it goes back into the motor, do I need to make any adjustments to the Crank or Cam, or will I do that through the means of adjusting the timing once the Timing chain is back on?
LAST QUESTION with Picture. This is a picture of one of my cylinder heads as it came off the motor. I have really run dry as far as the budget is concerned on this car, I know I'm going to get flamed here, but if both cylinder heads look like this, does it appear I would need a valve job absolutely or is there a way I can clean them up? Also, when cleaning the cylinder heads, is it okay to do so when the valve springs, valves, etc. still there?

Rep will be given for the help in answering these questions! Thanks guys!
Chris,
You don't want to touch the cylinders with ANYTHING like a wire brush or honing tool unless you already know what you're doing. Take it to a machine shop, have them bore and hone it. It costs around $125 IIRC. If you pay them to have new bearings put in, it'll run you up to around $200. (I copuld be wrong on the exact prices. Call the machine shop for that to be clear) If you had a oil pressure problem, that will likely be where the problem was. (Every 302 I've ever had with oil pressure problems, the cam bearings was where it was at) On the heads, put some water into the chambers, and see if it leaks out or not. If it does, then you need a new valve as well as a valve job. If not, the you might get away with simply lapping the valves. Not a "cure", but better than bolting them back on as is.
You NEED to replace the timing chain. Read your chilton's. It'll explain how to do that.
You don't want to touch the cylinders with ANYTHING like a wire brush or honing tool unless you already know what you're doing. Take it to a machine shop, have them bore and hone it. It costs around $125 IIRC. If you pay them to have new bearings put in, it'll run you up to around $200. (I copuld be wrong on the exact prices. Call the machine shop for that to be clear) If you had a oil pressure problem, that will likely be where the problem was. (Every 302 I've ever had with oil pressure problems, the cam bearings was where it was at) On the heads, put some water into the chambers, and see if it leaks out or not. If it does, then you need a new valve as well as a valve job. If not, the you might get away with simply lapping the valves. Not a "cure", but better than bolting them back on as is.
You NEED to replace the timing chain. Read your chilton's. It'll explain how to do that.
I have not touched the cylinders with anything except a soft microfiber cloth to clean them. The machine shops have quoted me upwards of $400+ to do the work. I don't know if the cylinders need to be bored, they look like they are in good shape except for that surface rust which wipes right off, just need to figure out how to keep it off, but as 79 said, just put some oil or wd40 in there. This is not the motor with the oil pressure issues, that was the one they sold me, which I gave back to them, this is my original motor which did not have oil pressure issues.
The timing chain is decently new, under eight months old.
Also, I have the block out, I'm only replacing the Main Bearings/Rod Bearings, and that is not difficult to do once everything is apart like it is now. The cam bearings look like they are in good shape.
The timing chain is decently new, under eight months old.
Also, I have the block out, I'm only replacing the Main Bearings/Rod Bearings, and that is not difficult to do once everything is apart like it is now. The cam bearings look like they are in good shape.
Doctor, can you explain to me what this means and how I would fix it? I don't want this rebuild to make this car brand new, I just want to get a little more life out of it and use it as a learning experience on rebuilding the motor. I'm putting in new pistons, new main/rod bearings, all new gaskets, piston rings, etc. Keeping stock crank, cam, heads, etc.
Get some *White Lithium Grease* and coat the block aswell as the cylinders and crank...
If you weren't so far away I would come and help ya out on the work... You're not building a race engine so this is a very simple rebuild... Take you're block to Shaun, Dave or Joe and get em to take a ridge reamer to it to clean that lip up at the top of cylinders. They can also prolly install the cam bearings, and freeze plugs as well,... For a fee of course.
If you weren't so far away I would come and help ya out on the work... You're not building a race engine so this is a very simple rebuild... Take you're block to Shaun, Dave or Joe and get em to take a ridge reamer to it to clean that lip up at the top of cylinders. They can also prolly install the cam bearings, and freeze plugs as well,... For a fee of course.
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