Need some input!
I am starting to see some flexing in the roof line on both sides of the area between the hatch and the top of the quarter windows.
I have Kenny Brown sub frames already. (Band Aid!)
I have seen a brace that goes between the rear shock towers. Do they actually do any good?
I am going to gut the thing this fall to install new quater windows, headliner and carpet. I am thinking of having a roll bar put in then also.
Only a 4 point though, I do not want to mess up the rear seat access or put up with door bars. (Street car here, but it did just put down 485 rwhp at the Ford Speed dyno day and I aint done yet.)
Who can do it right?
Keep in mind it has a perfect interior and I want to keep it that way.
Thanks,
I have Kenny Brown sub frames already. (Band Aid!)
I have seen a brace that goes between the rear shock towers. Do they actually do any good?
I am going to gut the thing this fall to install new quater windows, headliner and carpet. I am thinking of having a roll bar put in then also.
Only a 4 point though, I do not want to mess up the rear seat access or put up with door bars. (Street car here, but it did just put down 485 rwhp at the Ford Speed dyno day and I aint done yet.)
Who can do it right?
Keep in mind it has a perfect interior and I want to keep it that way.
Thanks,
A roll bar isnt going to fix any flexing issues and someone will disagree I'm sure.......reason- 4 points only attatch to the floor pan and doesnt tie into the subframe connectors....to me a 4 ponit is useless because it doesnt strengthen the integrit yof the car. flame suit is on
I kind of thought the same thing.
How about going to thru the floor frame connectors?
They mounted on top of the existing frame and ran thru the floor/seat mount humps.
I saw some of them installed once that looked to really tie things together. They even crossed over in the back and tied into the torque boxes, over to the driveshaft hump and mounted the rollbar on top of that.
The car is already stiff as F$%^!
It has C springs and Koni reds on full firm. So it is very stiff. No squat or lean at all.
How about going to thru the floor frame connectors?
They mounted on top of the existing frame and ran thru the floor/seat mount humps.
I saw some of them installed once that looked to really tie things together. They even crossed over in the back and tied into the torque boxes, over to the driveshaft hump and mounted the rollbar on top of that.
The car is already stiff as F$%^!
It has C springs and Koni reds on full firm. So it is very stiff. No squat or lean at all.
Last edited by 500HPLX; Aug 18, 2009 at 05:34 PM.
A roll bar isnt going to fix any flexing issues and someone will disagree I'm sure.......reason- 4 points only attatch to the floor pan and doesnt tie into the subframe connectors....to me a 4 ponit is useless because it doesnt strengthen the integrit yof the car. flame suit is on 

Through the floor subframes is what really does the trick to tie the whole car together. But its all dependen on the rest of the cage.
A 4 point with through the floor subframes tieing it all together will help.....but not as much as bring it up to a 6 point roll bar where you have 2 bars going to the front of the car helping tie everything together.
4 point, 6 point, 8 point etc. back seat access is already going to be a problem. And for the door bars you can think about swing out arms they are legal up to certian speeds/times.
Last edited by 91Notch; Aug 19, 2009 at 06:04 AM.
Cage: https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/r...56k-death.html
For your "street" car, you should definitely consider swing out bars. Esp. if you don't have tilt wheel
For your "street" car, you should definitely consider swing out bars. Esp. if you don't have tilt wheel
Here's a pic:
Last edited by GNs-r-slow; Aug 25, 2009 at 09:48 PM.


