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main bearing clearance numbers???

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Old May 11, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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Default main bearing clearance numbers???

what is the spec on clearance for the crank??? used plastigauge and it said like .001-.0015. with the green. red is just a little wider than the .002 is that too tight??? machine shop said my mains and rods were both dead on .010 and i bought .010 bearings...also endplay should be between .004-.008 right??? well when i torque the mains to 50ft pounds (ARP spec) i cant even move the crank...WTF


Also i used the engine assembly lube on the cam, and its hard to turn by hand. should i have just used motor oil instead???


just startin my build and already in on the computer....damn


please help...

Last edited by mustangman101; May 11, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:45 AM
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Ya if the crank wont turn you need to stop now and take it apart. On a fresh motor build with no pistons installed yet you should be able to almost turn the crank by hand!

Your end play spec is correct.

Bearing oil clearance for the mains calls for a desired of .0004 to .0015 (.0004 to .0021 allowable)

So you actually on the loose side if you did the plastiguage correctly. Something else is wrong if it wont turn.

Yes they do make special cam lube but assembly lube is fine. Do not use just plain motor oil.

Last edited by 91Notch; May 12, 2009 at 06:53 AM.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:53 AM
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thanks for the specs


i think its because the number 3 main bearing thrust plate is touchin the crank. i tried to use a pry bar and get a little space, but it wont. i read in a book i have that you can get a piece of sandpaper and set it on a piece of glass. then sand each side of the bearing to get thte correct clearance....any thoughts???

Last edited by mustangman101; May 12, 2009 at 06:59 AM.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 07:11 AM
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^^^^

Never had to do that

I have heard of taking news paper soaked in oil and scuffing up the bearing surfaces and basically polishing the finish. But never anything about having to work a thrust bearing side.

Last edited by 91Notch; May 12, 2009 at 07:14 AM.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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well like i said i know you have to use a pry bar or something to get the thrust bearings lined up. then torque it down. before i install the botom cap. the top thrust bearing has excatly .004 endplay. but the bottom half seems to stop it from moving. if that makes sense
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Old May 12, 2009 | 07:41 AM
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End play is measured after everything is torqued down.

Are all the main caps in their original locations and the arrows facing the correct way?
Are you tightning the mains in the correct order?

Tighten all main caps EXECPT the thrust bearing cap. Work from the center out and approach the final torque in 3 steps. Then tighten the thrust bearing cap to 11 ft lbs. Tap the ends of the crankshaft forward and backward with a brass hammer. Then go back and retighten all the main bearing caps to proper spec starting at the center and working outward. Rotate the crank a couple times then check end play.

Are you using ARP main bolts or studs?
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Old May 12, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 91Notch
End play is measured after everything is torqued down.

Are all the main caps in their original locations and the arrows facing the correct way?
Are you tightning the mains in the correct order?

Tighten all main caps EXECPT the thrust bearing cap. Work from the center out and approach the final torque in 3 steps. Then tighten the thrust bearing cap to 11 ft lbs. Tap the ends of the crankshaft forward and backward with a brass hammer. Then go back and retighten all the main bearing caps to proper spec starting at the center and working outward. Rotate the crank a couple times then check end play.

Are you using ARP main bolts or studs?
yes all orginal caps faced the right way. i dont have a brass hammer. havent tried tapping them with a hammer though. i have ARP main studs.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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Did you line bore the motor for the new studs?

When you change from bolts to studs your supose to line bore the motor with the new studs installed! Not the bolts.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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studs were already in the block when i got it. i even bought the exact same bearings that came out of the motor.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 91Notch
Did you line bore the motor for the new studs?

When you change from bolts to studs your supose to line bore the motor with the new studs installed! Not the bolts.

thats was gonna be my only guess... Damn you dave!!!
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