Help me help a fellow Ford guy out.
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Help me help a fellow Ford guy out.
I got a message from a guy who is doing a torque converter install for the first time and I want to make sure my info is right... it's been a while.
Here was the message:
Here was my answer.... if anybody sees something wrong or a step missing, please answer.... thanks Ford Tech.
Basically, the TC should have two "square holes" on the side that goes onto the input shaft. On the input shaft itself there are two "dogs".... think "keyway"...you just have to eyeball it the best you can and get it close, it may take some turning left and right to get it on there correctly.
It's a real bitch, or can be. The TC connects to the input shaft this way. No bolts there.... once you have it on the input shaft, you don't want to push it all the way to the back, it needs at least 3/16ths of an inch to spin freely.
If the tranny is out of the car, you can "keep" the TC in place by running nylon tie straps through the bolt-holes on the bellhousing, leaving a hole big enough to hook in a little black bungie cord....
One you think it's on, jack up the tranny and you'll see 3 bolt holes on the flexplate, the TC bolts to that.
Remember to make sure that the TC spins freely after bolting it to the flexplate. Also, to remove the bungie cord, just cut the tie-strap.. (zip tie).
Good luck man.....
Here was the message:
Could you give me a quick walkthrough of installing the Torque converter, and mating the bellhousing? I havent performed this operation before.
Once the TC is on the input shaft, how is it secured? Bolts? Studs?
Once the TC is on the input shaft, how is it secured? Bolts? Studs?
Basically, the TC should have two "square holes" on the side that goes onto the input shaft. On the input shaft itself there are two "dogs".... think "keyway"...you just have to eyeball it the best you can and get it close, it may take some turning left and right to get it on there correctly.
It's a real bitch, or can be. The TC connects to the input shaft this way. No bolts there.... once you have it on the input shaft, you don't want to push it all the way to the back, it needs at least 3/16ths of an inch to spin freely.
If the tranny is out of the car, you can "keep" the TC in place by running nylon tie straps through the bolt-holes on the bellhousing, leaving a hole big enough to hook in a little black bungie cord....
One you think it's on, jack up the tranny and you'll see 3 bolt holes on the flexplate, the TC bolts to that.
Remember to make sure that the TC spins freely after bolting it to the flexplate. Also, to remove the bungie cord, just cut the tie-strap.. (zip tie).
Good luck man.....
welcome to Tampa Ricing
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Chr.... it needs to be spun while applying a lil pressure until it clunks twice ,this properly sets the tc on input and pump? shaft. There is four studs on the tc(if its a ford) that will line up with corresponding holes on the flex
Bondsman
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I always recommend TO push thiem all the way back. Reason being, there are a few combinations of bellhousing / flywheel combo's out there. Plus if its a custom built converter YOU need to measure distance between conv mounting and flexplate. If converter has to be pulled more than 3/8 - 1/2 You will catch the problem there instead of breaking the front pump. If converter is pulled too far out the front pump, it is guaranteed to break front pump !!!
Anotther hint, do not use trans bolts to "pull up" the trans to motor surface. If it wont flush up by hand there is a problem
Converter fasteners may be bolts or studs, depending on manufacturer
Anotther hint, do not use trans bolts to "pull up" the trans to motor surface. If it wont flush up by hand there is a problem
Converter fasteners may be bolts or studs, depending on manufacturer
Last edited by GNs-r-slow; Apr 10, 2009 at 04:32 PM.
Made Of Scars
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I always recommend TO push thiem all the way back. Reason being, there are a few combinations of bellhousing / flywheel combo's out there. Plus if its a custom built converter YOU need to measure distance between conv mounting and flexplate. If converter has to be pulled more than 3/8 - 1/2 You will catch the problem there instead of breaking the front pump. If converter is pulled too far out the front pump, it is guaranteed to break front pump !!!
Anotther hint, do not use trans bolts to "pull up" the trans to motor surface. If it wont flush up by hand there is a problem
Converter fasteners may be bolts or studs, depending on manufacturer
Anotther hint, do not use trans bolts to "pull up" the trans to motor surface. If it wont flush up by hand there is a problem
Converter fasteners may be bolts or studs, depending on manufacturer
Still CREEPIN
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Bondsman
Joined: Oct 2005
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Bondsman
Joined: Oct 2005
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Maybe Frank will ellaborate, but checking (measuring) the pull out of the converter has to do with the "set up" of the pump when trans is built. This set up can vary. I've always been told to check this upon installation and have been times that I've had to shim between converter and flywheell.
banana republic
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I've pulled and replaced my engine more times than I can count....And every time, I've pulled and re-installed the TC. To re-install the TC, simply push it onto the input shaft until it won't go anymore. This is the FIRST stop...Turn the TC clockwise until it can be pushed on to the input shaft further. (this is the second stop) Then, turn the TC clockwise again until it can be pushed onto the input shaft even further. This is the THIRD (and final) stop. Take a straightedge (like a 3 ft level) and hold it across the transmission bellhousing face. The TC studs (if equipt with them....if not, then you should put them on at this point) should NOT be able to touch the straight edge. When you put the engine back in the car, the TC should NOT be touching the flex plate upon initial installation. In fact, even after the engine and the trans are bolted together, the TC should not be touching the flexplate. There should be about 3/16 of an inch space. When you put the nuts onto the studs, this will pull the TC back out that 3/16". This will have it correctly put in the trans. If the TC IS touching the flexplate prematurely(i.e. the TC can't be pulled to the flexplate), the TC is not seated properly and you will break the pump upon start-up.
Hope this helps..
Hope this helps..
