I think I'll try that first.

then maybe new wires, i do not think my wires are that old.

 

If I unplug it will it cause anything else, run rich? Like I said before sometimes it doesnt happen for over a month and as soon as I flick the key to off and back on it goes away right away.

 

On a stock 93 and older car, this shouldn't cause any significant difference in the way the car runs and feels. If you have matched injectors/meter, then the effect of this will be dependent on how accurately the meter has been calibrated.

What sucks is it sometimes goes for a long period of time without an issue, so it will be difficult to determine of this makes a difference or not.

As a last line of defense, I have some equipment that can monitor everything that is going on, and if we can get it to act up with that stuff hooked up, I can pinpoint the problem for you.

Good luck,

Brian
EFI-Unlimited

 

Where are you located Brian? might have to give it a try.

 

Have you made any progress? You could try it with the MAF unplugged. The computer will compensate for the lack of input. A friend had an 91 GT with a similar issue where even in neutral the motor wouldn't rev up smoothly at all and the throttle response was real slow. After pulling the MAF sensor it was obvious that the K&N oil had gummed up the sensor. After cleaning, the throttle was very snappy and it ran real nice.

 

I just tried the o2 sensors and it ran fine for a day then it sputter again. So I plugged it back in today. I'll try unplugging the MAF. I have a dry filter.

 

With the MAF plugged, it will run ok up to about 3500-4000 RPM and then it will become unhappy. Since the o2's are likely NOT the problem, the next most likely scenerio is an intermittent part failure. Coil, etc, some suspects have already been mentioned. With the stuff I have, I can monitor sensors and inputs, but outputs, like a coil, I won't be able to tell anything about.

I am located in west Tampa, and I am all around the bay area during the day. If you do want to meet up with me, I can come to you, or you can come to me if you like.

Brian
EFI-Unlimited

 

well I had a spare coil (MSD) so i switched that last week and no luck. I will clean out the MAF, I think I have a spare one anyway. I'll do some of the easy stuff first then I'll just get with you when your available if the other stuff doesnt work.

 

This is precisely why I like my carbed car better than my FI car. FI car has about 100 sensors that COULD cause the problem. Carbed car has about 3 different areas.
Air - too much or not enough...choke closed or intake leak. Both are easy to find.

Fuel - too much or not enough...Floats stuck open or closed? A/F ratio out of adjustment? fuel filter clogged?

Spark - yes or no...Does it have spark or not? If so, and it still isn't running, then it could be the firing order, coil, dizzy, plugs, or plug wires.

If you do your own work, most of these ailments cost under $25.

Now, I have mentioned some of the MAIN culprits for a vehicle not running right with a carbed engine...There is always the not so obvious, like a bad ground or some other minor gremlin, but generally speaking, those are the most common things you will see with a carbed vehicle.

Most common things with a FI vehicle? IDK...O2 sensors, MAF sensors, cats, computer, IDK whatelse. All of those things cost over $100. (if you count two of the o2 sensors as they should both be replaced at the same time IIRC) Thats just if you do your own work.

FI vehicles run smoother, and get better mileage...but come on..if you want to go fast, you really don't care about "smooth" or "mileage".

 

man i agree its your wires!!! my fathers 200 f150 did the same thing and it was a coil pack(in your case a wire) and my sisters 2004 mustang di it too and it was also a coil pack(the wires get F'ed up inside the pack so its basiclly a plug wire in both cases and VERY LIKELY YOURS)

change the damn plug wires, one might have worn through or melted/broke...

im the third guy tellin' you lol