95coBraSVT

Ok guys, I did this today and decided to take a few pics and do a write up on it. My apologies for not using the "proper" tool terminology.


Tools you will need:

1) Thin piece of metal about 3 ft long and 1/2 inch wide, possibly 1/16 inch thick. These are actually sold on most tool trucks.

2) Flathead screwdriver

3) Phillipshead screwdriver

4) 5/16" socket 1/4 drive

5) 1/2" open end wrench

6) 5/8" open end wrench

7) Radiator tank removal tool

8 ) Radiator tank installation tool

9) 1/4 drive rachet

10) Ball peen hammer

11) running water

12) about 2 hours of time


Ok, here we go folks...Hold on and if some of you shop guys notice that I left out a step, please let me know so I don't miss it next time. LOL

1) Allow the car to cool (duh)

2) Remove the radiator cap.

3) Un-screw the petcock valve and drain the radiator

4) While the radiator is draining, remove the plastic covering the top radiator suport. You will need the phillipshead screwdriver to remove the outer plugs holding it on, and the flathead screwdriver to remove the other plugs holding it on. KEEP THESE PLUGS you will need them later to re-install this piece. (duh)

5) Once the radiator is completely drained, remove the top radiator hose from the radiator.

6) Remove the bottom radiator hose from the radiator.

7) Using the 5/16 socket and 1/4 drive rachet, remove the scew holding the radiator fan control module and unplug it.

8 ) Unplug the fan.

9) Using the 5/16 socket, unscrew the two screws holding the overflow bottle and remove it from the vehicle.

10) Using the 5/16 socket, unscrew the TWO screws holding the fan to the radiator and remove the fan.

11) Using the 5/16 socket, unscrew the screws holding the two top radiator supports. (there is ONE screw on the passenger side, and TWO screws on the drivers side)

12) Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

13) Drink a beer. (if you don't drink alcohol, drink a nice cold iced tea or a soda)

14) Using the radiator tank removal tool, CAREFULLY remove the INLET side tank, being CAREFUL NOT TO REMOVE THE RUBBER GASKET. (If the radiator is clogged, this is where MOST of the crud will be)

15) Take the thin piece of metal (or "rod") and try to slide it through the individual passages of the radiator. Do NOT try to do this without running water on it at the same time.

16) Once you have successfully rodded out each passage in the radiator, it is time to re-install everything.

17) Carefully position the tank back on the radiator. Pay attention to where the inlet is and that it is on the proper side.

18 ) Using the hammer, Gently tap each "clip" back onto the tank of the radiator.

19) Using the radiator tank installation tool, tighten each "clip" being careful not to overtighten.

20) Re-install the radiator into the vehicle.

21) Using the 5/16 socket, re-install the top radiator supports with teh three screws that were removed from them earlier.

22) Using the 5/16 socket, re-install the fan with the TWO screws removed from it earlier.

23) Re-install the bottom radiator hose and tighten.

24) Using the 5/16 socket, re-install the radiator overflow tank with the TWO screws removed earlier.

25) Plug in the radiator fan control module and using the 5/16 socket, tighten it on.

26) Plug in the fan

27) Re-install the top radiator hose and tighten.

28 ) Close the pet cock valve.

29) refill radiator.

30) Re-install the plastic which covers the radiator support using the original plugs which attached it.

31) Start vehicle.

32) check for circulation in radiator. Assuming there is circulation, then re-install radiator cap and drive.


Pics will be up as soon as I can get my photobucket account to work. Probably Monday or Tuesday.

GNs-r-slow

Nice work, but cant you replace them for less than a $100? Just a thought

95coBraSVT

I didn't find any for that price. Plus, rodding it out is FREE if you have a friend who has the tools.

shinysideup

They have this shit in a can...called radiator flush.
Step 1. Add can to rad.
step 2. run car.
step 3. drain and refill with new coolant mix.
Beer is not a step,it goes without saying

or this is cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories















































hey BTW, you forgot the first step. Drive car till engine seizes.

95coBraSVT

When you see the pics, you will see why radiator flush would not have worked in this instance. over 1/2 of this radiator was full of crud. Said "crud" was probably some of that head gasket repair crap in a can.

I needed to get this car back on the road TODAY. The wife has witheld...ummm..."funtime" for too long now. So waiting for an $80 Ebay radiator is not really an option. Plus, 2 hours of time for labor to do this job....Definatly worth the trade.



Oh yeah, and I is poor. So "free" is WAY better than $80. And it only took about an hour longer to rod it out vs. replacing it.










And I didn't drive it till it siezed...I drove it till it wouldn't drive anymore or stay running....Then when it cooled off, it cracked the block....but it still started again and ran....(after cleaning out the inside of the muffler with radiator water )

Mars_302

sure its free if you have access to the tools and a radiator that you can do it too. Most foxs are sealed end tanks, not the plastic end tanks with rubber gaskets.

95coBraSVT

What is the thread title again please? If you have a 94 or 95 mustang, then you likely have the radiator right there in the car. I even explained how to get it out.





edit* LOL I just realized that I made a mistake in the title....I put "95" twice! Can you change it to "94-95"?

Tiffiny

sounds like a big waste of fucking time and a disaster waiting to happen

good luck with dat

bvh

lol . good wright up?

Mars_302

acutally it should read 94+ mustangs, and pretty much GM and Dodge radiators as well.