Need your opinions. I'm pretty sure I already know what it is,.. just want you guys to confirm.


93 Mustang GT.

I've rewired the distributor on the car. I used the hot lead that went to the coil and wired it directly to a ProForm HEI distributor. I took the other side and hooked it up to the tach. Been working fine last couple of days while tweaking the engine in the driveway.

I finally got most of the engine bay cleaned up so I decided to take the car out for a test drive today,.. finally found a dry moment between the rain sprinkles. When I came back to the house,.. I turn the key off and the motor stays running. I had Lady Hurst in the car with me and I'm like WTF?

I pop the hood and disconnect the hot lead to the distributor.
I cant find any wiring under the hood thats fubar,.. but everything that should be off still has 12v to it. The power windows, wipers, horn and all are still functioning,.. yet the key out of the car with the switch in the off position.

I've never had this kind of a problem happen to me before. Damnedest thing,.. but if I had to guess,.. replacing the ignition switch or checking the wiring to it and I might find the source of my problem.

Do you all agree or what else should I check?

Hurst

 

Did you confirm with a light that the 12v to HEI turns off with the key?
Also isnt there 3 spades on the HEI hook up? I thought one isnt used on for tach one for 12v +?

 

sounds like a problem with the ignition switch (not the key switch). I'd check that first

 

Its the ignition switch.

The burnt wires confirmed it.

I guess wiring the coil lead directly to the HEI was too much for it.

Going to replace the ignition switch and put the power lead for the distributor on a toggle switch with a fusable link like I did with the fuel pump.

Thanks guys,. just wanted to make sure.

Hurst

 

Yes,.. it did before. But did not tonight after the test drive. I had the HEI on a bullet connector. I just unplugged it to shut it off. The key would not shut off the power to the car. Ignition switch got hot and melted. I had to disconnect the battery so it wont kill it.

I can say this though,.. found a couple dry spots in the road. I test drove the car with the Vic 5.0 EFI before and now with this 650 HP carb on the Vic Jr. The car is running balls to the wall. I need a 6AL-2 so bad. Pulled 7000 RPM like it was nothing,.. this bitch hooked like a Mofo,.. I was all giddy and grinning from ear to ear. Put Lady Hurst back in the seat,.. even she was like Fuckin Aye,.. I really dont want to spin this motor past 6500. Need to get a rev limiter on here bad.


Hurst

 

why not use the factory wire to actuate a high current relay? that way it would still be switched by the key...

 

I thought thats what the coil wire was?

I took the plug apart and used the hot and tach sides of it. I mean it had a MSD Blaster coil on it before. Thats not enough to feed an HEI? All I did was feed the HEI coil with the same wire that was plugged into the coil.

The fuel pump is on a dedicated 12 gauge line from the battery with a 25 amp inline fuse. I use a toggle switch to activated it. I used a bullet plug on coil hot lead and ran a 14 gauge wire to the HEI. No fuse in between,.. but nothing was shorting out. I figured there should have been a fusible link between the coil lead the the fuse panel. I wouldnt have thought it would cook the ignition switch like it did.


Hurst

 

I don't think it should have either.

Your switch may have melted for other reasons. The coil circuit may have just been in the wrong place at the wrong time when wires got toasty...

 

I've always used the factory 12v source from coil as well with no issues. It is fused through the fuse panel. As far as source for fuel pump and other high amp things, I run power wires to post on alternator.

 

I was thinking same thing, maybe just timing