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MOD Motor Block Question

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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bitemark46
Oh also that darton sleeved block.. was it wet sleeved or dry? -Mark


it is a wet sleeved block, 3.70 bore if im not mistaken.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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iv seen this more than once on a stroker , and the power gain dosent over way the risk imo!
Originally Posted by bitemark46
Other than a stroker crank what other ones are there? The 4.6 doens't need a longer stroke, it needs a heigher deck height (aka 5.4). IMO if its going to be a FI motor its a waste of money to increase cubes. BB or stroker.

Just to let you know here is a pic of a stroked 4.6. Granted it was spun 8500 but it didn't last but maybe a year. Side load FTW!!!

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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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i dont know every thing about mod motors . but i though a short block was a short block and u could put 2v , 3v , or 4v heads on it . sneeks2nv for the best answer call the builder .
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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I dont see any compelling reason to shy away from a BB setup. However, you may have problems with siamese sleeves like the 324, if you do not know what to do with the steam holes. The proper solution is not to block them off in the block, but drill them in the head (and gasket), unless they are cross drilled in the block like the BOSS302.

There is no reason it can't work reliably, so long as you pay attention to the details. If you think you can just buy a 3.7 bore block, order some 3.7 bore pistons, and you are home free, you should probably stick with a standard displacement motor. You need to have a thorough understanding of what you are engineering if you expect it to work correctly.

The people that have these horror stories are probably a little more 'git 'er done' and a little less Jon Kasse.

Brian
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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BB motors are great for N/A and mild boost applications. But to try and stuff a good amount of boost down its throat IMO is asking for trouble. Just not enough material between the cylinders. Its great to be pioneer on something but people forget on how much money they have spent...err.. wasted to get the right combo.

Brian- I do agree that it isn't as easy as throwing a bunch of parts together and expect it to work but there is a reason on why there are a very limited amount of engine combos as the OP wants. For one a BB stroker is very expensive and two there is less than a handful of engine builders that know how to build a strong N/A mod motor that will last. Hence the first reason.

I say if the man wants more cubes to go 5.4. Big and flat torque curve without the issue of side load on the piston. Plus more cool points IMO.

-Mark
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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I agree with not needing the extra stroke, but BB does unshroud the valves a lot - still would only do it if I was going for a max effort NA motor. FWIW, I did have a 302 stroker and when we pulled it apart, the walls still looked fine - nothing like that, but it was NA too.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 04:31 AM
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Turn the boost up 1 more pound, save the money and make more power.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 12:41 PM
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I have heard people having issues with the Darton sleeves getting the heads to seal, leaking issues etc..

For N/A I am all about the BB setup on the mod motors, I'm only a fan of the stroker setups when you are not going to be turning the motor high RPMS.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 03:50 PM
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I've also heard of sealing problems when not using a MLS head gasket. I think with a BB setup with a Cometic would out fine, but what do i know? I know when i have extra $$$$ i will be going with a max effort N/A motor. I'm looking to either go BB or just step up to a DOHC 5.4.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 04:11 PM
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< 281 4 life
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