I have a few questions. 9" vs 8.8. 4 link vs ladder bar vs factory suspension setup.

First let me say that I am not trying to set my car up for any class. I am not trying to prove anything.(ie-I'm not trying to say I ran 0.00 on stock style suspension or on an 8.8 or stock block... you get the idea) I also know there are people running record numbers using 8.8s and stock style suspension, using dragradials over slicks and on and on.

Basically what I am saying is that I know I CAN use an 8.8 and factory style suspension, but since I have to buy everything new (of course not including the factory 8.8 housing if I do choose to stay with my original 8., should I step up to say maybe a strange 9" setup?

I have plans to narrow the rearend about 2-3" on each side (whether 8.8 or 9") and go with a deeper offset rim. I'm also seriously considering mini-tubs. These are some of the reasons why I was thinking of going with a non stock style suspension. (I'm not sure what is available with a stock style lower control arm setup with a narrowed rear. Another thing is I will obviously be drag racing the car but I want the ability to drive the car say to daytona without beating the crap out of the suspension. (I know people differ in what they consider a street car or better yet what they consider streetable)

To sum it up, I'm not worried about a setting up my car for a class or proving anything. I don't want any problems hooking but don't want to kill the suspension with some street driving.



Sorry for the long read. All opinions are appreciated. I'm starting to save up some funds to work on the rear next.



btw a link to my build so far - https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/f...-progress.html

 

8.8 built can go into the 7s..some say the gears cant take the power though but that also plays into the weight of the car.

stock suspension stangs can get low 1.20 60ft times on drag radials and i'm sure some been in the teens on slicks.

u can get fully adj stock suspension parts now for almost any car.

ladder bar and 4 link are better and 4 link being the best seeing u can tune a ton of apsects with them..but back halfing a car is going to be costly and then u better know how to tune the suspesion.

not knowing your power out put and the speed and times your looking for it is hard to say what would be better.

i'm doing stock suspension on my car with a 8.8 and she will be one fast street car.but then again my weight is only going to be around 2600#s

 

Yea, I remember years and years ago, reading in mm&ff a guy running 7.9s on an 8.8 and since then people just getting faster. One of the reasons I brought this up is, I was just reading a Race Pages article on 8.8 vs a 9 and according to them they recomended around 700hp or so stepping up to a 9. Just like you said, the article stated that the gears are the weakest link in an 8.8.

Lets say I stay with the 8.8 and narrow it 2-3", can I still get lowers that will work? I would choose the 8.8, I'm just concerned about tire clearance if I choose to stay with factory style susp.

 

and then you get cars like mine that you cant get anything for, unless you count Camaro shocks and some chevy springs

 

the people i'm talking about that have problems with the gears are making 1500-2300hp

i plan on 800 or a little more.

there are plenty of drag radial guys running 325 and 315 radials..worse comes to worse u mini tube which is alot cheaper then a back half job..shit u can mini tube a car your self..plenty of kits out there

look at upr for rear suspension stuff

 

was making about 1000 with an 8.8, 33 spline and a spool.. cutting 1.29 60' times... 8.8s can be built tough...

 

To get a car to hook good(1.3-1.2)60 foots and a comfortable street ride is gonna be hard to swing.Getting a car to 60ft like that you will have to do away with comforts like poly bushings and add things like sepericals and a anti roll bar.

I'm not a big fan of street car setups in a car,people build these cars to go fast then try to make them "streetable" then wonder why they cant get the car to hook,then they end up doing it all over again.Do it once,do it right and you'll never have to do it again.

If you want to mini tub it,narrow the rear and all that just go coilovers and be done.I would use a built 8.8=less rotating mass and unless your making 1500+hp you won't have a problem with a Motorsport gear.They also make offset control arms for tire cleaence,or relocation ends for the lower control arms.All depends on what you want to do,I spent hours upon hours thinking,contiplating,again and again before I bought one peice of the rear suspention.After all,the better it hooks the faster it will be.

 

If your going to be street driving the car, I would suggest stock style suspension with mini-tubs and 8.8. Not saying that cost is a factor but IMO 4-link/9in would be an unnecessary expense vs benefit.
Just an opinion, I think its much more impressive to see stock susp. cars bustin off killer times vs a full tub back half car try to keep up

 

Yea, I agree. I know there is a difference in what people think streetable. I first want to be able to hook first and formost which is why I threw the idea of a ladder bar or 4 link out there. Most people wouldn't run a drag brake setup on the street, alot of people wouldn't run skinnies or remove the factory sway bar. I'm okay with that but I drive accordingly. I'm obviously not going to be driving the car like I drive the Z. I'm also not concerned with a comfortable ride. When I mentioned that I don't want to beat the suspension up, I'm just not sure how long sperical bushings and joints will last etc. When I say I want it to be streetable, I'll more or less drive it at most once a week or up to a hang out on the weekend or drive it to the track.

I built an 8.8 for my old coupe, 9" flanges, 33 splines, spool etc when I had it. I was just a little worried when I read that article in Race Pages.

I want to know more about the offset control arms and or relocation ends. I know they made them for Fbodies, but I wasn't sure if they were avalable for foxs or SN95s. Would the lowers connect in the same place at the body or is that were relocation ends were to come into place?

Thanks bro

 

I agree too, but I just wasn't looking forward to have to work hard at making it hook with stock style just to SAY I had stock style suspension. I just wouldn't look forward to going to the track say Orlando spinworld and my 60s ranging from 1.8s to 1.3s and everything in between because my suspension wasn't working right.