Things that were not supposed to work right on my car....
Carb + Turbo - Would not run right, not street-able, will need constant tuning.
(A/F reading during dyno runs and track runs are flat as a ruler, runs great on the street, have not touched the tune since it left the dyno.
)
Rear drum brakes will never haul it down from 130.
(141 and counting
)
-
(A/F reading during dyno runs and track runs are flat as a ruler, runs great on the street, have not touched the tune since it left the dyno.
)Rear drum brakes will never haul it down from 130.
(141 and counting
)-
I ride a 500cc 2 stroke atv. It is carb'd with no fuel pump (works off of vacuum). In the winter I have to go up in jetting since the air is more dense. During the summer months (mainly July/August) I have to go down in jets due to less oxygen in the air. So since a carb'd motor can't calculate for atomsphere conditions and 99% of the time a dyno tune is usually done at WOT aren't you a little worried about the a/f being off (mainly during the cooler months) when the car isn't at WOT? Was it tuned for both part throttle and WOT? I guess really if you tuned it for dense air and didn't change it for the hotter months, the car will be down on power a bit but I guess that would be safer. That was my question..
And about the brakes... Didn't Derek go 8.56@155 with factory brakes front and back. Now that is one crazy mutha fukka! -Mark
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98' cobra
98' cobra
Scott, the car definately hauls ass no doubt but I do have a question on your first statement. And by no means I'm trying to rain on your parade but I'm trying to see if it relates to cars as it does in other combustiable engines.
I ride a 500cc 2 stroke atv. It is carb'd with no fuel pump (works off of vacuum). In the winter I have to go up in jetting since the air is more dense. During the summer months (mainly July/August) I have to go down in jets due to less oxygen in the air. So since a carb'd motor can't calculate for atomsphere conditions and 99% of the time a dyno tune is usually done at WOT aren't you a little worried about the a/f being off (mainly during the cooler months) when the car isn't at WOT? Was it tuned for both part throttle and WOT? I guess really if you tuned it for dense air and didn't change it for the hotter months, the car will be down on power a bit but I guess that would be safer. That was my question..
And about the brakes... Didn't Derek go 8.56@155 with factory brakes front and back. Now that is one crazy mutha fukka! -Mark
I ride a 500cc 2 stroke atv. It is carb'd with no fuel pump (works off of vacuum). In the winter I have to go up in jetting since the air is more dense. During the summer months (mainly July/August) I have to go down in jets due to less oxygen in the air. So since a carb'd motor can't calculate for atomsphere conditions and 99% of the time a dyno tune is usually done at WOT aren't you a little worried about the a/f being off (mainly during the cooler months) when the car isn't at WOT? Was it tuned for both part throttle and WOT? I guess really if you tuned it for dense air and didn't change it for the hotter months, the car will be down on power a bit but I guess that would be safer. That was my question..
And about the brakes... Didn't Derek go 8.56@155 with factory brakes front and back. Now that is one crazy mutha fukka! -Mark
No rain here buddy, it's all good..

Both combos (stock block and new block) were both finished in cool months and actually tuned on cold days. So with this in mind it will be fatter as the months get warmer, so you are right on.
Therefore yes, I am giving up a little power on a hot day but I am fine with that. And if I want to lean it out a tad to keep it from getting to fat (which will snot up the plugs eventually) I just dial in another pound or two of boost to lean it out some.
I now have a wide band in the car so it is going to make it much easier in the hot months. It was at 11.7 out the back door on my 9.46 pass, just where I want it.The fun trick thing is with the carb I have is it will lean itself out when there is no boost on the motor. So I cruise around at 14:1 or so and the second the carb feels any boost in comes the fuel. This is something that was added right before it got dynoed and that the carb co. I use just came out with. I am test mule for them with the combo I have.
And I presume you are talking about Half-bred (Derek) ? If so yeah he is going way faster than I will ever test brakes.
No, Derek (Stroked85) I just saw his post sneaked in right before mine. I remember his pass during that TRack Day. Had the nitrous backfire then came back for another pass and went mid 8's.
Derek- is that right? -Mark
Derek- is that right? -Mark
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98' cobra
98' cobra
Oh man this will be too funny if that is the case.
Exactly !
Production carb blow thrus were in the mid to late 60's and that is it from what I remember.
The carb enclosure box from Paxton never really took off and did not work as well as the new types. None the less it was around as you mentioned.
Most people never knew about any of these and it was easier to doubt since carbs are supposed to take black majic to work right.
Production carb blow thrus were in the mid to late 60's and that is it from what I remember.
The carb enclosure box from Paxton never really took off and did not work as well as the new types. None the less it was around as you mentioned.
Most people never knew about any of these and it was easier to doubt since carbs are supposed to take black majic to work right.

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nope, had discs at all 4 corners..
(and it went 159 Mark...
)
upgraded them after I hit the mid 9's the first couple of times and decided that it took WAY too much effort to haul it down from the 140s.
(and it went 159 Mark...
upgraded them after I hit the mid 9's the first couple of times and decided that it took WAY too much effort to haul it down from the 140s.
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I am your penalty.....
I am your penalty.....
now for the final myth - will the car be seen on pinks and "will you lose your ride" ? JFWY
i have to agree that there is alot of BS on car sites. I think most people stick the the EFI route as a street or streetable car. in most cases it would be the best route to go. but that does not mean a carbd turbo motor in not possible.
i have to agree that there is alot of BS on car sites. I think most people stick the the EFI route as a street or streetable car. in most cases it would be the best route to go. but that does not mean a carbd turbo motor in not possible.
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200 points away from a 300
200 points away from a 300


