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302 Timing Cover/Water Pump Bolts

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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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Default 302 Timing Cover/Water Pump Bolts

So, which bolts get what? Thread lock/moly lube/Teflon water sealent stuffs? Also, if you know it, what PSI do the stock bolts go to?

Links or advice works, just as long as you can be (resonably) clear with the instructions. Thanks in advance, guys!
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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chiltons is in english.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 04:11 PM
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Fucker.

So is Hayes, but someone omitted the section that says what gets what. Go figure...
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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The 4 longest timing cover to block bolts (around water passages) should get anti-sieze on the entire bolt to keep them from corroding and lockin itself in the block many years down the road. Lots of people dont, but I've seen enough of them broken off flush in the block to know better. The shorter ones by the timing cover pointer, etc dont need anything other then bein cleaned with a wire brush. The gasket should get a thin coating of silicone (i use ultra blue) on both sides of the gasket around the 2 coolant passages. Its also a good idea to use to small globs of silicone on the 2 corners where the timing cover meets the oilpan in the front main seal area.

The waterpump to timing cover bolts dont need anything on them (except the ones mentioned above that go all the way thru the waterpump, timin cover and into the block) The waterpump to timing cover gasket should get the same light skin of silicone treatment all over the gasket, on both sides of course. Same thing for the thermostat gasket if you're replacin it.

Whenever you buy a new waterpump or if you're reusing a like-new one, take the metal backing plate off of it by removing the two 5/8" head bolts that attach it to the back of the pump. You'll want to again use the skin of blue silicone on all of this gasket front and back too. Inspect the casting for pitting damage where it meets the gasket, its rare but I've seen them leak b/c of it.

I usually just take a small amount of silicone on my finger (use gloves to keep it from dryin on your skin as its a little hard to scrub off unless u wash ur hands with comet or a SOS pad) and just rub the silcone on the gasket until the gasket gradually absorbs it and turns it darker, doesn't take much.

Sounds obvious I know, but not doin this shit usually ends up with you doin the job a 2nd time when u start pourin water back in the radiator and hear that lovely coolant start hittin the driveway from a leak at the waterpump/cover. Cant begine to tell you how many people used to call me because they did timing chain swaps or waterpumps and didnt know to use the silicone and had coolant all over their driveway.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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+1 on pulling the pumps rear cover , cleaning it up inside and putting a new gasket on! its a really stupid design that it held on by 2 bolts then uses the clamping force of your other bolts also. If it didnt leak from there before and u do everything right but that cover it will DEFINATLY leak on you lol

Ultra blue FTW

If your above stated 4 bolts look crappy in the least just replace them It will save u more then one head ache and swearing rant later.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 07:44 PM
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I use rtv all my bolts personally. ive only seen one rear gasket ever fail on a water pump and it was an old pump anyway.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mars_302
I use rtv all my bolts personally. ive only seen one rear gasket ever fail on a water pump and it was an old pump anyway.

RVT on all.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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Well, I've got a brand new Edelbrock water pump I'm using. Thanks for the detailed info about the bolts and other advice, by the way. I really appriciate it!
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