Question for the 2.3 Turbo guys...
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Question for the 2.3 Turbo guys...
Got a couple of questions:
1st- How much hp can they handle at the wheels? ( stock short block )
2nd- Whats the weakest link in the shortblock?
3rd- Whats the best aftermarkt manifold? ( Stinger, log style, etc.. )
Thanks in advance guys,
Tony
1st- How much hp can they handle at the wheels? ( stock short block )
2nd- Whats the weakest link in the shortblock?
3rd- Whats the best aftermarkt manifold? ( Stinger, log style, etc.. )
Thanks in advance guys,
Tony
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oe Morgan
Boosting 5psi
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posted document.write(timestamp(new Date(2005,11,6,10,15,0), dfrm, tfrm, 0, 0, 0, 0)); 06 December, 2005 01:15 PM12-06-2005 10:15 AM 
The stock block made 740 on an engine dyno after about 6 full pulls...at around 30 pounds. A few months later, I turned it up to around 40 (55psia) and the thing went nuts. It went significantly faster (brake slipped and I sat with the clock ticking and ran a "9.1" (on a 1.5 60' time...DOH!) at 151mph -- really a high 8. Killed the $40 crank (bent bad) and wounded the block (not bad, needed a line hone) from spinning well in excess of 9000 (9400+)...if that's not 800+horse at 2600 pounds,I don't know what is. I never broke or cracked anything...tossed a rod once (ran WAY too long on them). I didn't even know it was wounded until I tore it down months later, I ran it the whole weekend.
It would have been perfectly happy with a good crank with full counterweights. It just "whipped" the center main from the RPM. On teardown, it looked perfect until I tried to pull the center cap. Tom Rader has the block...
Boosting 5psi
Member # 710
posted document.write(timestamp(new Date(2005,11,6,10,15,0), dfrm, tfrm, 0, 0, 0, 0)); 06 December, 2005 01:15 PM12-06-2005 10:15 AM The stock block made 740 on an engine dyno after about 6 full pulls...at around 30 pounds. A few months later, I turned it up to around 40 (55psia) and the thing went nuts. It went significantly faster (brake slipped and I sat with the clock ticking and ran a "9.1" (on a 1.5 60' time...DOH!) at 151mph -- really a high 8. Killed the $40 crank (bent bad) and wounded the block (not bad, needed a line hone) from spinning well in excess of 9000 (9400+)...if that's not 800+horse at 2600 pounds,I don't know what is. I never broke or cracked anything...tossed a rod once (ran WAY too long on them). I didn't even know it was wounded until I tore it down months later, I ran it the whole weekend.It would have been perfectly happy with a good crank with full counterweights. It just "whipped" the center main from the RPM. On teardown, it looked perfect until I tried to pull the center cap. Tom Rader has the block...
2. Weakest link in the block? Your tune.
3. Don't know, but unless your running a split scroll holset, I pretty sure you'll get good performance out of many of the aftermarket ones, space constraints and the ability to not melt your plugwires/torque the bolts seems to be the biggest issue with them.
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2: Weak link? Rods above 375hp if you have a very good tune that never detonates, about 300ish if you have occasional detonation. And pistons. Nothing wrong with the stockers, but they arent available anymore. CP makes a nice piston in the $400/set price range.
3: Stingers header looks good from a flow and powerproduction standpoint, but I think Bob's log will have better long term durability. Im on the fence about trying out one of Stingers headers on my car. I tell ya, the only thing that makes me hesitant is knowing its chinese. I hate Chinese parts with a passion. If I could get one like Stingers that was American made I would gladly pay 5-550 for it.
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I agree with the statement that the block will handle in excess of 700rwhp if engine speed is kept reasonable. I know the stock pistons rods bolts ect will do 400rwhp all day. I bet it would do 500rwhp with a good tune and reasonable rpm.
The rods are rumored to be the weak point and that really seem to be solved with good bolts. (at least for another 100rwho give or take)
I think the best header is the huber for an open flow header. The split scroll your pretty much on your own.
The rods are rumored to be the weak point and that really seem to be solved with good bolts. (at least for another 100rwho give or take)
I think the best header is the huber for an open flow header. The split scroll your pretty much on your own.
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What are you guys using too tune your cars?...The only system I can find is megasquirt..I,m only looking for around 300-350hp.Feel free to pm me any systems that are fairly cheap and user friendly..If theres such a thing..Sorry for the thread jack
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I agree with the statement that the block will handle in excess of 700rwhp if engine speed is kept reasonable. I know the stock pistons rods bolts ect will do 400rwhp all day. I bet it would do 500rwhp with a good tune and reasonable rpm.
The rods are rumored to be the weak point and that really seem to be solved with good bolts. (at least for another 100rwho give or take)
I think the best header is the huber for an open flow header. The split scroll your pretty much on your own.
The rods are rumored to be the weak point and that really seem to be solved with good bolts. (at least for another 100rwho give or take)
I think the best header is the huber for an open flow header. The split scroll your pretty much on your own.
I personally think saying that is like saying a 5.0 block is good for 600hp.... It might, but for how long, and what happens when something even remotely remotely goes wrong? A touch of detonation(which is bound to happen sooner or later, you cant control EVERYTHING) will take a rod that is living near the edge just happy and turn it, and the rest of the motor into a paperweight.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/MVC-002F.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/MVC-003F.jpg
I seriously doubt this engine was making 400hp and the detonation was not even audible. But apparantly it was there. And other than the chucked rod the engine ran GREAT.
About 300hp is the highest I would try to get away with stock rods, especially if I am RECOMMENDING to someone. If you are out to prove some silly "most hp 2.3 using stock _____, _______, _______" with your own stuff thats one thing, but the general rule is another.
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Cost wise I dont think it gets any cheaper than the electronic Erector set(I mean, Moneyshot..err, I mean, Megasquirt
) But if you dont need to buy new and you can live with buying used, more featured standalones for 4-700 all day long if you look for them.
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I really appriciate all the help guys. I used to have an 85 svo back in the day with a bigger t3 turbo boosting over 20psi, msd ignition, bigger injectors, intake, exhaust, and a 15psi hobe switch with a 5th injector spraying alcohal into the intake to reduce detnation. I miss it so much I decided to do another 2.3T project, but this time a little more serious.
I am going to be using an 88 TC for the donor car. I know it has the E6 manifold, but wont be using it. How can I tell what ECU I have?
If anyone knows some good websites please let me know so. The only one I know about right now is turboford. Thanks again guys.
Oh, I dont mind anyone highjacking my thread as long as its 2.3T related
I am going to be using an 88 TC for the donor car. I know it has the E6 manifold, but wont be using it. How can I tell what ECU I have?
If anyone knows some good websites please let me know so. The only one I know about right now is turboford. Thanks again guys.
Oh, I dont mind anyone highjacking my thread as long as its 2.3T related
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power2weight- Do you have or know were I can find the specs on the link about the guy that made 740hp? Thanks again man for all youe help.
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