to keep it cheap try to do lower control arms, remove front swaybar, some drag radials or even some small slicks, move your battery to the rear of the car, run skinnies up front and ditch as much weight as you can, probably also a steeda timing adjuster and a cold air intake w/ a k&n filter and then maybe a set of 4.10's, also some adjustable shocks so you can play with the settings on the launch...........oh, I forgot, a good set of sub frame connectors.
Don't sweat the light or the competition as first, the time doesn't start until you break the starting beams, regardless of the green light. Just practice different styles of launching at different tire pressures and different shock settings until you find a good launch rpm and clutch action. your reaction time only counts if you're really competing!
also if you keep street tires, don't be silly and lower your air pressure like your on slicks like a lot of guys do, it will actually hurt traction.

 

subframe Connectors 1st LCA'a 2nd,Battery not worth it at this point a bigger impact would be to unbolot your passenger seat at track . Shocks next then uppers gears make biggest difference but hurt you if you cant hook.

 

only ricers take their seats out at the track.... you should take your motor out, it would remove alot of weight from the front end.

40+ lbs moved from the drivers front to the passenger rear would be a step in the right direction.

 

i think a rear gear would be an excelent investment, as well as subframes and at least lower control arms. i wouldnt be in too much of a hurry to put uppers in there as long as the motor is stock.

 

battery(stock Motorcraft) is 34lbs, tray is less than a half pound,22ft 2ga wire is 12lbs(for run to rear),16ft 2ga wire is 8.75lbs (for alternator kill switch) 8ft 2ga wire (for starter to relay box) is 4.25lbs(all weights include stainless cushion Clamps every 12 inches) as weighed on my scale at home(digital Bathroom Scale) so you save 9lbs not much really after you look at it, Kinda sorry I did it to mine but needed the room up front. also remember your putting it back in the car (better for traction) but your not really losing weight your actually gaining the weight of the wire and hardware.
I used all Marine grade UL and Coast guard listed Wire(I do this for a living) and used flex-loom and Stainless cushion clamps every 12inches per ABYC Codes.I also used a 150amp Breaker which was not weighed.
stock passenger seat(cloth,Manual)is 44lbs gone (for real)
if it didnt help Pro cars would prob have them too.aftermarket h pipes also save alot of weight.(offroad)more if you get rid of other crap you dont need if you get rid of cats(smog pump etc)