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Subframe connector question.

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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 06:16 PM
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Default Subframe connector question.

I'm looking to buy subframe connectors for my car but didn't know where to invest my money, im looking at the Steeda ones, but i've also heard that the cheap JEGS Subframe connectors work just fine. is there a difference, is there other brands i should be looking at? any advice on this will be gratefully appreciated. thanks in advance.

Nick.
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 06:27 PM
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I have the steeda ones and after launching at 7k on slicks and 5k+ on DR's my car still drives straight and I can still shut my door.
You also may want to check on Maximum Motorsports full lenghts. Those are also some nice ones too. -Mark
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 06:29 PM
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now, should i consider the crossbrace?. also the bolt ones or welded ones?
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 06:29 PM
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now, should i consider the crossbrace?. also the bolt on ones or welded ones?
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 06:33 PM
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I got the weld in ones that have a cross brace that bolts to the underside of the seat bolts. -Mark
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 07:22 PM
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im getting the steeda chrome moly ones, half the weight, twice the strength. i would get the full length ones but i dont want to weld that much on a new car
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 08:16 PM
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Give Joe a call @ Fordspeed, I'm using basic weld in ones on my 85 Notch, and it makes a little bit of power..
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 08:54 PM
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Originally posted by Scott
Get weld on ones only and the seat brace part tends to rip into the floor after time. Heck the ones I have are homemade and have been on there for 10+ years and going strong. They are thick round steel pipe with homemade braces.
Actually those seat braces prevent floor pan ripping at the seat bolt region, particularly with the earlier foxbodies. Not sure if this is a problem in the SN95, but I don't think it would hurt to have them there.


I've seen great results with the cheap $99 box steel weld-ins (I think they were Chassis Engineering or something like that). The only bitch about these is you lose quite a bit of ground clearance, which may not be such a bad thing if you have low hanging exhaust due to long-tube headers (could save scraping your exhaust on massive speed bumps).

If I did it all over again, I'd probably go with the Steeda full-lengths. These tie into the torque box to supposedly help strengthen that troubled area as well. They aren't even that expensive ($139 I think).
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 03:16 AM
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i have Kenny Brown Super Sub frame connectors, there made from light-weight zinc material and have the cross brace for the seat bolts and also weld in on the tips onto the sub-frame. and they are cheap if you buy them from www.rpmoutlet.com

i think they are only like $69.95 or $79.95+shipping, and everyone knows that kenny brown makes some bad-ass suspension equipment.
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