brakes
the last 2 days my car has been making a bad CV type noise from the front of the car. it was time for brakes and i knew that, and since you have to take out the bearings to get the rotors off anyways, i threw in new inner and outer bearings.
my question is, the new bearings came with the racers. i think thats what they are called. anyways, the new rotors came with the racers installed already. i think. at least they look identical.
so, i put the new bearings in after i pressed them in my greaser, and put the new seals on the hub first, the way they are supposed to go. then the inner bearings, put on the rotor, put the outer bearings on, then the washer, then the bolt. the thing is the bolt was hand loose when i took the rotors off, and now after putting everything together, the bearings are seizing up and making a worse clicking noise. when i put the bolt on, i did it tight, but not very tight. should i hit it with an impact really quick to seat everything better? now that i think of it, maybe since the bolt was loose, it was allowing just enough flex around corners to make the noise.
before i tore into it today, i checked for wheel movement. at 12 and 6 o clock, it moved about a 1/16" forward and backward. at 9 and 3 it was dead set. so the tie rods are good, the bearings needed to be changed.
but i dont know what the problem could be. you cant even push the car because it binds up on the bearings so bad. so i think i should hit the bolt with an impact to seat everything really well.
let me know what you guys think
my question is, the new bearings came with the racers. i think thats what they are called. anyways, the new rotors came with the racers installed already. i think. at least they look identical.
so, i put the new bearings in after i pressed them in my greaser, and put the new seals on the hub first, the way they are supposed to go. then the inner bearings, put on the rotor, put the outer bearings on, then the washer, then the bolt. the thing is the bolt was hand loose when i took the rotors off, and now after putting everything together, the bearings are seizing up and making a worse clicking noise. when i put the bolt on, i did it tight, but not very tight. should i hit it with an impact really quick to seat everything better? now that i think of it, maybe since the bolt was loose, it was allowing just enough flex around corners to make the noise.
before i tore into it today, i checked for wheel movement. at 12 and 6 o clock, it moved about a 1/16" forward and backward. at 9 and 3 it was dead set. so the tie rods are good, the bearings needed to be changed.
but i dont know what the problem could be. you cant even push the car because it binds up on the bearings so bad. so i think i should hit the bolt with an impact to seat everything really well.
let me know what you guys think
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Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
alirght, i put it finger tight yesterday. ill leave it that way then. i will just pull it apart again and see what is binding up i guess.
thanks
thanks
__________________

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
Originally posted by Mars_302
You want the nut finger tight. The castle nut cage and the cotter are there to stop it from backing off. You want the nut tight enough where there is no play, but not so tight its causing to much friction in your case.
You want the nut finger tight. The castle nut cage and the cotter are there to stop it from backing off. You want the nut tight enough where there is no play, but not so tight its causing to much friction in your case.
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Originally Posted by Zate
i still stand by the fact that 75% of 16-23 year olds are dropped babies.
Originally Posted by Boosted240
Mustangs are the hondas of the domestic cars. The drivers are always doing ricer revs and just like hondas, about the only place you cant buy parts for them is at 7-11.
Also, even though rotors come with new races installed - I usually remove them and install the ones that come with the new bearings. It just seems that using the race and the bearing from one manufacturer would be best.
Jeff
Jeff
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Jeff
93 Coupe - check out my blog - http://www.93coupe.com
01 Cobra - Stockified - Wife Owned and operated
68 Coupe PROJECT <- Been in the family for 25 years!
Jeff
93 Coupe - check out my blog - http://www.93coupe.com
01 Cobra - Stockified - Wife Owned and operated
68 Coupe PROJECT <- Been in the family for 25 years!
well i put it all together right. the noise that i heard was the clip on the brake pad opposite the piston. i have weld draglites and the clearance was too close. ruined a set of pads, but warrentys are great things.
no big deal. thought it was yesterday till i pulled the wheels off. tore up the wheels on the inside from just rolling all of 6 feet. but you cant see it so its all good.
thanks for your help guys
no big deal. thought it was yesterday till i pulled the wheels off. tore up the wheels on the inside from just rolling all of 6 feet. but you cant see it so its all good.
thanks for your help guys
__________________

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant


