need help asap
im in the middle of this project.
i just bought a new performance products typhoon intake upper and lower.
the lower is done and bolted in place, gaskets and everything. there is a gap inbetween the valve cover and lower plenum. about a 1/4 ". and there are holes that run along the cylinder head i can see about a 1/8 "showing. they shouldnt be shwing. what the hell could the problem be???????????
i need your help!!!!!
the box says its for the right year and everything. the injectors will not go in because the lower is not lined up right, even though it is all bolted down as of now. im fucking clueless
i just bought a new performance products typhoon intake upper and lower.
the lower is done and bolted in place, gaskets and everything. there is a gap inbetween the valve cover and lower plenum. about a 1/4 ". and there are holes that run along the cylinder head i can see about a 1/8 "showing. they shouldnt be shwing. what the hell could the problem be???????????
i need your help!!!!!
the box says its for the right year and everything. the injectors will not go in because the lower is not lined up right, even though it is all bolted down as of now. im fucking clueless
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Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
Are the heads decked alot? More then .050? The intake is too high or the heads are too low. Is the gasket between the lower and the front/back of the block to big. Maybe pull out the cork and just stick in goo. <-- Not good if its a forced car.
they match up alright. its just that the hole in the top of the head is showing just a bit. we dont think it goes anywhere though. the other mustang here has the same stuff, but he still has the stock intake which has little "blocks" that go up around it.
we got the injectors in. i replaced the o rings on them and got them in just fine. the stock intake still had the head showing just a bit through the injector hole.
the car is not FI, so if we have some problems we might be able to take some black RTV and plug it. there isnt enough pressure to really cause any problems we dont think.
ill get back to you after we start her up.
i still have the stock heads, so that shouldnt be any source of a problem.
we got the injectors in. i replaced the o rings on them and got them in just fine. the stock intake still had the head showing just a bit through the injector hole.
the car is not FI, so if we have some problems we might be able to take some black RTV and plug it. there isnt enough pressure to really cause any problems we dont think.
ill get back to you after we start her up.
i still have the stock heads, so that shouldnt be any source of a problem.
__________________

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
Originally posted by black91gt5.0
i just bought a new performance products typhoon intake upper and lower.
i just bought a new performance products typhoon intake upper and lower.
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they did a run back last year in 5.0 mustangs and fast fords. teh numbers were identical to the trick flow street heat. quite a bit cheaper.
we got the car started tonight. the pedal feels rather rough, somewhere where the throttle cabel comes through the firewall i belive. we werent able to do too much, neighbors sleeping and so were the parents.
after the radiator fluid worked its way off the belt, and all the other shit burns off tomorrow, i will try to do some tuning. the car hasnt been started all day, so it was totally cold.
i will have use to a volt meter tomorrow to check the tps, should it be at or below 1 volt???? the stock throttle body was around .98 the last time i fucked with it.
maybe the idle screw will have to be dealt with tomorrow, i just wasnt able to get the car to not idle rough, dont know if its because the car was totally cold, or (and im sure this isnt helping things: got the BBK 70 mm throttle body and EGR to match, got the 70 cuz im going to do heads soon someday) but the O2 sensors dont know what the hell is going on now. let the computer settle down a bit? what do you guys think? have any tuning prowess for a moderate mechanical ability person?
thanks for your help,
Dustin
we got the car started tonight. the pedal feels rather rough, somewhere where the throttle cabel comes through the firewall i belive. we werent able to do too much, neighbors sleeping and so were the parents.
after the radiator fluid worked its way off the belt, and all the other shit burns off tomorrow, i will try to do some tuning. the car hasnt been started all day, so it was totally cold.
i will have use to a volt meter tomorrow to check the tps, should it be at or below 1 volt???? the stock throttle body was around .98 the last time i fucked with it.
maybe the idle screw will have to be dealt with tomorrow, i just wasnt able to get the car to not idle rough, dont know if its because the car was totally cold, or (and im sure this isnt helping things: got the BBK 70 mm throttle body and EGR to match, got the 70 cuz im going to do heads soon someday) but the O2 sensors dont know what the hell is going on now. let the computer settle down a bit? what do you guys think? have any tuning prowess for a moderate mechanical ability person?
thanks for your help,
Dustin
__________________

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
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I like to keep my tps around .92-.96 just to be on the safe side. Let the car warm up and go into closed loop mode. The computer needs to learn all this new air its getting.
Main things you can do is set your TPS, set your timing and set your fuel pressure if you bought a regulator
Main things you can do is set your TPS, set your timing and set your fuel pressure if you bought a regulator
i got the TPS set to .95. havent messed with the timing yet because i ran into a big problem.
the gaskets that run to the cylinder heads worked out just fine. but the front and back manifold gaskets are total shit.
they are cork and not nearly fat enough to make a good seal. i have oil and gas dripping out the back of the manifold. the gas i think is #3 injector.
anyways, i need to tear it apart AGAIN and redo the damn gaskets this time with a whole shitload of black RTV. i didnt do it in the corners enough. fucking pissed off right now.
i got the car started before i noticed the gas and oil slick under the car. the intake sounds mean as hell with all the new air its getting, one good thing that came about as of today.
got the idle set really well, but now that is probably off cuz of the obvious vacuum leak from the intake.
calling it quits for today.
the gaskets that run to the cylinder heads worked out just fine. but the front and back manifold gaskets are total shit.
they are cork and not nearly fat enough to make a good seal. i have oil and gas dripping out the back of the manifold. the gas i think is #3 injector.
anyways, i need to tear it apart AGAIN and redo the damn gaskets this time with a whole shitload of black RTV. i didnt do it in the corners enough. fucking pissed off right now.
i got the car started before i noticed the gas and oil slick under the car. the intake sounds mean as hell with all the new air its getting, one good thing that came about as of today.
got the idle set really well, but now that is probably off cuz of the obvious vacuum leak from the intake.
calling it quits for today.
__________________

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
one more thing,
has anyone here had problems witht the fel pro cork gaskets for the front and back of the lower intake?????
the ones for the heads work just fine. but one other mustang guy i know said with the 3 intakes he has gone through, everyone leaked because of these gaskets. he just used a ton of RTV and it worked just fine.
has anyone here had problems witht the fel pro cork gaskets for the front and back of the lower intake?????
the ones for the heads work just fine. but one other mustang guy i know said with the 3 intakes he has gone through, everyone leaked because of these gaskets. he just used a ton of RTV and it worked just fine.
__________________

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
Actually the Typhoon intake was an exact replica of the Edlebrock Performer RPM series. Alot of people were disgruntled with this overseas creation because of the fact that almost every one of them you would have to fabricate on. Cork gaskets aren't the best for stuff like that. For things like valve covers they are perfectly fine but intakes I wouldn't use them.
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"Gripping the wheel his knuckles went white with desire, the wheels of his mustang exploding on the highway like a slug from a .45. True death. 400 horsepower of maximum performance piercing the night, this is Black Sunshine"
"Gripping the wheel his knuckles went white with desire, the wheels of his mustang exploding on the highway like a slug from a .45. True death. 400 horsepower of maximum performance piercing the night, this is Black Sunshine"


