Just my opinion, but the K-member is about the last thing in the world you want to skimp on (right up there with brakes). I mean really. Look at what it's function is. If it fails it's bad news. Plus, you've got to take everything apart to replace it. You may as well do it right once.

 

Spent the majority of last night researching K-members. Seems the only ones worth a damn that have absolutely no negative reviews come from Griggs, MM, PA, or KennyBrown (all priced around $600+). Just looking at the picures alone you can tell these are much beefier looking units compared to the cheaper ones on the market. Looks like I will save up for the more expensive K-member and slap on a set of stock Foxbody a-arms until I can afford the tubular units.

Thanks for the help guys. If anyone has a spare set of stock Foxbody A-arms sitting around, I am interested in purchasing them. Doesn't matter if it has the ball joint as I will be installing the SN95 balljoints in place of the Fox units. Also do not need bushings...probably throw a set of delrin or poly bushings in there while I'm at it.

 

if you are going for the top of the line, i would definitely go with griggs. I dont know if you are into straight line or curves, but check out corner-carvers.com, and griggs is hands down considered the best suspension stuff you can buy (also the most costly). Next in line i would go with PA or the MM, last would be the KB (they dont have much good to say about KB stuff)

 

Grigg's pricing is insane. For the entire package front and back, you'd be looking at $5k+. I know its worth it, but thats about what I paid for the car in the first place.

I guess the good thing about Griggs or MM is you can somewhat upgrade in stages, so I won't have to plop down $2k+ for front suspension all at one time.

 

I had a griggs side by side to a D&D and a Hal. They are overhyped IMHO. The PA is a nice setup also. The Hal is a beefy unit and it changes the geometry like some of the others. Remember, D&D offers a road and a drag version of their k-member. For $600 shipped for K-member, a-arms, and coil-overs you can hardly beat the deal. I have yet to hear of a failure of a Hal or D&D K-member and there are more of them in use than the griggs/KB/MM but there are always "experts" out there............

Also the ground pounders are supposed to be copies of the griggs unit.

 

be carefull of slapping a set of stock control arms on a k-member, it pushed my wheels forward about 1/2" on mine when I had used my stock a-arms.

 

It will push the wheels forward.and after you spend the $ on new bushings and balljoints,for a couple bucks more you can get real a arms with new balljoint and no bind from the himm joint set up.If you can swing it get adjustable a arms there worh it.

 

Looking more and more at the D&D. Read a couple decent reviews from some people using their K-member w/a-arms for race duty.

Seeing my car will see mostly street duty, I think at this point spending mucho dinero on some heavy duty race parts may be a bit overkill. As much as I really didn't like the D&D on my mom's Cobra, she did run it for about 3-4 years with no problems. May just go with that setup so I can finish my suspension and stop the pile of parts from growing in storage.