mustang wont run
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Joined: Aug 2003
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mustang wont run
hey guys i have a 87 lx 5.0 its just stop runing,i was leaving my aprment on the stop signed the car started to sort of misfire then it shut off like it ran out of gas but i just filled it up too,what do ya think i can be the fuel filter cloged or the fuel pump is bad,does the fuel pump make a noice when the ignition switch is on i need some help here thanks in advance guys
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Well if you flip the ignition switch over you should hear your fuel pump activate in the back almost like a buzzing sound. If you don't hear that sound, well I guess that could be the culprit.
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"Gripping the wheel his knuckles went white with desire, the wheels of his mustang exploding on the highway like a slug from a .45. True death. 400 horsepower of maximum performance piercing the night, this is Black Sunshine"
"Gripping the wheel his knuckles went white with desire, the wheels of his mustang exploding on the highway like a slug from a .45. True death. 400 horsepower of maximum performance piercing the night, this is Black Sunshine"
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Thats the PIP inside the distubitor then probably. Its easier just to get a complete reman one from autozone and just swap them out. To do the PIP you gotta knock the gear off and pretty much take it all apart.
To be sure unplug an injector plug, take a test light and hook it up to the postive side of the battery and probe both wires on the connector while someone turns the motor over. You should get a pulse from one of them. If not its probably you PIP
To be sure unplug an injector plug, take a test light and hook it up to the postive side of the battery and probe both wires on the connector while someone turns the motor over. You should get a pulse from one of them. If not its probably you PIP
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Tampa, FL
I went through this problem almost 3 years ago. All the same symptoms of a bad EEC relay.
I ended up replacing mine with a relay at Advance/Discount Auto Parts. GP Sorensen part # MR14. Should be around $12.
If this doesn't fix it the PIP as mentioned before may be a culprit. This should always be replaced at the same time as the TFI. Many owners get by with only replacing the TFI, but these two parts work in conjunction with each other. Make sure the inertia switch in the rear hatch/trunk has not been tripped. If replacing the fuel pump doesn't help the only other thing that I could think of is replacing the EEC with a new one. Checking the EEC relay is the cheapest alternative, though.
I ended up replacing mine with a relay at Advance/Discount Auto Parts. GP Sorensen part # MR14. Should be around $12.
If this doesn't fix it the PIP as mentioned before may be a culprit. This should always be replaced at the same time as the TFI. Many owners get by with only replacing the TFI, but these two parts work in conjunction with each other. Make sure the inertia switch in the rear hatch/trunk has not been tripped. If replacing the fuel pump doesn't help the only other thing that I could think of is replacing the EEC with a new one. Checking the EEC relay is the cheapest alternative, though.
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Helmut
Helmut
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From: Tampa, FL
I forgot to mention when I removed the old EEC power relay the was some corrosion in the connector. Buy some CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner from the parts store if you replace the relay. Scrape out the excess, if any, then spray out the connector. After it dries spray a little WD-40 in there. Wipe it out with a rag/cloth. Install the new relay.
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Helmut
Helmut
