Who Makes Good Tubular K-Members ?
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Who Makes Good Tubular K-Members ?
Looks like I will now need a tubular K member to make the turbo install much easier so I need some input since I have never researched K members before.
What do I need to look for ?
Who makes a good one ?
I have several brand names in mind but want to see what everyone comes up with.
What do I need to look for ?
Who makes a good one ?
I have several brand names in mind but want to see what everyone comes up with.
refinish artist
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the D&D'S suck because they set your motor back,I would check into Maximum or Griggs.QA1 is really nice but expensive...good luck
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RIP Chester P.Anderson Jr.9/23/05 I love you dad,and miss you very much.
RIP Kevin"Slo SI" 9/13/06,we will miss you homie,time heals wounds but you will never be forgotten
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Scott,
You'll find that the MM and Griggs K-members are far more stout than alot of the others because they are built with durability during road racing rather than minimum weight in mind . The abuse the front suspension takes when road racing is pretty extreme compared to drag racing. They are still lighter than the stock unit, but are a bit heavier than some of the drag specific stuff. The drag specific stuff is engineered to be as light as possible while being just sufficient for the task.
Alot of the lighter units are made out of chromoly steel. It's lighter for a piece of the same size (and stronger), BUT do some reading about it. It tends to be more prone to cracking (particularly at the welds), so you'll need to do more frequent inspection and repair than you would have to do with a mild steel unit.
disclaimer: I'm sure somebody will chime in and argue that drag racing puts severe stresses on the k member when cars lift the front wheels. I'll not disagree. What I will say is that I don't think that that one major stressing per run compares to the stresses incured during a 20 minute track session on a road course (consider curbs, off courses, and bumps from other drivers). And then there's potholes on our wonderful tampa streets...
You'll find that the MM and Griggs K-members are far more stout than alot of the others because they are built with durability during road racing rather than minimum weight in mind . The abuse the front suspension takes when road racing is pretty extreme compared to drag racing. They are still lighter than the stock unit, but are a bit heavier than some of the drag specific stuff. The drag specific stuff is engineered to be as light as possible while being just sufficient for the task.
Alot of the lighter units are made out of chromoly steel. It's lighter for a piece of the same size (and stronger), BUT do some reading about it. It tends to be more prone to cracking (particularly at the welds), so you'll need to do more frequent inspection and repair than you would have to do with a mild steel unit.
disclaimer: I'm sure somebody will chime in and argue that drag racing puts severe stresses on the k member when cars lift the front wheels. I'll not disagree. What I will say is that I don't think that that one major stressing per run compares to the stresses incured during a 20 minute track session on a road course (consider curbs, off courses, and bumps from other drivers). And then there's potholes on our wonderful tampa streets...
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I hear ya, but my thinking is this....
how often are you willing to pull the engine to inspect the entire k member? In a high end dragster, the engine comes out regularly for rotating assembly rebuilds (hell, i think the top fuel guys do it between rounds). I'd go the lower maintainence route (even though it's 10lbs or so heavier) for peace of mind (and because I'd be doing road racing too...
).
how often are you willing to pull the engine to inspect the entire k member? In a high end dragster, the engine comes out regularly for rotating assembly rebuilds (hell, i think the top fuel guys do it between rounds). I'd go the lower maintainence route (even though it's 10lbs or so heavier) for peace of mind (and because I'd be doing road racing too...
).
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Just like I told you on the phone earlier, Griggs and MM make the best product.....period. Pricey yes, best quality K-member......always!!! But being that your car isn't driven that often, I would look into the D&D kit or even UPR's kit.
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AJE makes a good K-Member. I've got the steel QA1 in mine, no problems to speak of and you've seen my car run.
also, Engine set back is a good thing!
Drag specific stuff is engineered for durability as well, but yes with light weight in mind.
I wouldn't say one type of racing puts more stress than the other, just different types.
As you said, with some drag cars (like mine) I carry the wheels for a good 40-50' about 12-14" from the bottom of the tire...
Figure 1000lbs coming down from that height and it's got to be beefy...
also, Engine set back is a good thing!
Drag specific stuff is engineered for durability as well, but yes with light weight in mind.
I wouldn't say one type of racing puts more stress than the other, just different types.
As you said, with some drag cars (like mine) I carry the wheels for a good 40-50' about 12-14" from the bottom of the tire...
Figure 1000lbs coming down from that height and it's got to be beefy...
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