marksaccord95

suspension that will be on the SR86

front: T3 camber plates with roller bearing upgrade
GC coilovers 8 kg/mm
MR2 short strokes
1.8" shortened strut bodies
possible custom adjustable lower control arms

rear: T3 rear coilover conversion, elimating the leaf springs, 6.5kg/mm
T3 panhard and MAYBE 4 link

alignment will be:
0 toe
0 caster
-3.5 degrees camber

hachibill

hahahahahahahahahahahahah, if only yo could see how f-cked up my cars aligment is. i just compensate for the car, it doesn't matter what the aligment is like. i have 2.5 degree's of camber in the back and both tires are towed in like crazy. the front is alittle better. i neeed all the adjustable arms for the rear still and new bushings.

FRONT:
megan racing coilovers (supplied by XAT)
random used T/C rods and custom T/C rod brace
tein tie rods
strut tower brace
polly steering rack bushings
Full 6 point roll cage (supplied by XAT)

REAR:
megan racing coil overs
subframe spacers
HICAS rear sway bar


still need front and rear lower control arms.

allh0pelost

it appears that the general principle of oversteer/understeer is "soft will grip, stiff will slip." so to cancel out the general understeer of the s13 one would think of having the rear spring rate higher than the front. stiffer rear sway bars, and stiffer dampers in the rear.

i would want to create some sort of neutral balance or a very slight amount of oversteer on my car, but i'm not speaking on personal experience, just what i know. i'll have to wait til i can afford some nice coilovers. til then i'll be riding on STOCK!

2Valve

Stock with blown struts, gimme gimme gimme some good stufffss!! i need it

aphxero

I'm not sure if my settings apply since I drive an ae86 but. I've found a comfortable setiing to drive around and drift and lots of it has to do with the TIRE SELECTION. Every time I change tires it drastically affects my handling and I either adapt or change setting.

With such a light car (2231 with me in it!) I tune it for heavy understeer at low speed. Lately I've been drifting in the 40-60 mph range so the car starts to balance out when it gets faster. This is more fun to drift and safer driving on the highway.

Here's my alignment settings:
Toe: 0.3 degrees out
Camber: 2.88 degrees negative
Castor: +1.6 degrees

The rear is all 0.00 since I have a solid axle.

Anyhow, when I slow down or combo it's a different challenge to drift. And I have the most fun this way. I think the best thing to do at first is have a good neutral alignment and decent tires. being familiar with my car has helped me more than any suspension upgrades.

With that said here's my setup:

Tires: Front toyo 600f 195/50/15 36 psi, rear falken zeix 502 same size 40psi. Wheels are 15x7.5

front susp: Tein camber plates, battleversion tension rods, 40mm cut strut case with 6.25 kg/mm QA1 coilover, 4 way adjust short stroke AGX shock, T3 RCA.

rear susp: T3 lateral rod, TRD japan spring 4.7 kg/mm, 8 way adjust short stroke AGX shock, Ctune traction bracket.

I really wanna mention that I replaced all the bushing in the car with urethane and got new ball joints. This made my car feel 1000x more responsive. I think this shoudl be the first upgrade especially for those of us with older cars and worn out bushings. I also kept my stock sway bars but getting wider wheels has the same effect as stiffening them I've been thinking about getting adjustable ones but I don't really see a need for it yet.

Something simple like that will change your car completely. I've driven an s13 with a loose subframe from having worn bushings. It wasnt fun at all compared to an s13 with fresh bushings.

I hope this has helped someone. Sorry for the long post.

hachibill

the only time you need spot on alignhment settings is when you auto-x or road race. its not that important in drifting.

ryojikaji143

Agreed, my alignment is always changing because I am always bouncing off of curbs. Too expensive to do all the time and it doesn't make a big difference anyway.

_Charles_

and here is where I disagree with you. MY car previously (before alignment) handled ALOT differently before the newest 'alignment'. At the 'current' settings, I have found the car a little hard to handle. Ask Tony Shultz how my car handles...

now, If I change the numbers, the handling will change, and so will the drift (or the ability). So yes, alignments DO HELP.

and bill, I can here you right now.... "I would have no problem drifting your car charles...". You are probably 100% correct, you could do it, but finding the correct geometry for your driving style will only make it that much easier and that much better.

Charles

marksaccord95

agreed, hell i never even aligned the white corolla when i owned it, that car had maybe -1 MAX camber

_Charles_

okay...define 'alignment'. Too me, alignment is nothing more than a set of setting's. Every car has 'settings', therefore EVERY car is 'aligned'. Whether or not the alignment settings are within spec is another question altogether, because who's specs are you using? The factories, or your own set?

So Bill and MArk....your cars have 'alignments', even though you may not want to admit it. Hell, listen to yourselves...

imagine if you spent less time 'compensating'......