IRS or Solid Axle.
Originally posted by Ostrich
There are conversion kits to use the Celica/Supra IRS in the AE86. D1 AE86s' use both IRS and Solid rear axle so at least with those cars, either one can be made to work quite well.
With a fox body mustang, I think keeping the factory rear is fine, i don't see it being the limiting factor in keeping the car drifting.
More importnat to look into is increasing steering angle.
There are conversion kits to use the Celica/Supra IRS in the AE86. D1 AE86s' use both IRS and Solid rear axle so at least with those cars, either one can be made to work quite well.
With a fox body mustang, I think keeping the factory rear is fine, i don't see it being the limiting factor in keeping the car drifting.
More importnat to look into is increasing steering angle.
The main issue with the steering angle on a Fox is that there is never enough of it. They have the turning radius of an Australian "Road Train." Simple stuff can be done, but not much as far as any steering angle. Castor/camber is pretty limited unless you get real serious, but toe in/out is always a few turns away.

The hardest part I always had with drifting (before it was called that) a Fox was the snap oversteer they will always do. They're pretty twitchy and always have too much torque down low. Fun for donuts though.
2JZ + Fox = 2800 lb Supra that can dead hook.
Originally posted by solo_mata_me
Think of the solid rear axle as a solid I beam. No castor, camber or toe in ajustments. Things you can do to a 4 link solid rear axle in a Mustang all have to do with the control arms and how they are set up (some uppers will even let you ajust the pinion angle of the rear). Some control arms can even be set for the amount of "bite" you want. A friend had his 95 Cobra set up with so much hook that you couldn't physically make it break the tires loose from a redline clutch drop. You can also convert it to a 3 link style which permits a bit more roll, but the hot setup is a 5 link with a panhard bar/ect... Rear springs/shocks are crutial to the setup as well.
The main issue with the steering angle on a Fox is that there is never enough of it. They have the turning radius of an Australian "Road Train." Simple stuff can be done, but not much as far as any steering angle. Castor/camber is pretty limited unless you get real serious, but toe in/out is always a few turns away.
The hardest part I always had with drifting (before it was called that) a Fox was the snap oversteer they will always do. They're pretty twitchy and always have too much torque down low. Fun for donuts though.
2JZ + Fox = 2800 lb Supra that can dead hook.
Think of the solid rear axle as a solid I beam. No castor, camber or toe in ajustments. Things you can do to a 4 link solid rear axle in a Mustang all have to do with the control arms and how they are set up (some uppers will even let you ajust the pinion angle of the rear). Some control arms can even be set for the amount of "bite" you want. A friend had his 95 Cobra set up with so much hook that you couldn't physically make it break the tires loose from a redline clutch drop. You can also convert it to a 3 link style which permits a bit more roll, but the hot setup is a 5 link with a panhard bar/ect... Rear springs/shocks are crutial to the setup as well.
The main issue with the steering angle on a Fox is that there is never enough of it. They have the turning radius of an Australian "Road Train." Simple stuff can be done, but not much as far as any steering angle. Castor/camber is pretty limited unless you get real serious, but toe in/out is always a few turns away.

The hardest part I always had with drifting (before it was called that) a Fox was the snap oversteer they will always do. They're pretty twitchy and always have too much torque down low. Fun for donuts though.
2JZ + Fox = 2800 lb Supra that can dead hook.
WHy is there no steering angle ?
What runs out first the tierod lengths or the rack gears or are there stopers or spacers you can install to fix this?
what about a different steering rack ?
__________________
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
It's usually the rack. Back in 1979 when it was designed, it might have been good, but it just isn't ideal. There are a few other rack replacements, but they aren't going to do much to make the wheels turn any further or quicker. It's also a matter of wheel well clearance as there isn't much there.
You can crank the hell out of the tie rods, but you're just going to end up with a retarded amount of toe out and still not solve anything.
If I built a road racer/drifter fox, it would have a Flaming River quick ratio manual rack, bump steer kit and one of their steering shafts (eliminates the rag joint).
You can crank the hell out of the tie rods, but you're just going to end up with a retarded amount of toe out and still not solve anything.
If I built a road racer/drifter fox, it would have a Flaming River quick ratio manual rack, bump steer kit and one of their steering shafts (eliminates the rag joint).
the wheels hitting the wells, 240sx have that problem too with their titanic sunk stock wheels! Thats why everyone goes to larger wheels with way lower offest.. not only does it sit flush, but you dont crash into anything either.
since i have the tierod mod on my car i had to take a big sledgehammer to my frame area and knock it all in so i can have my car low and not rub anywhere either.
i'm sure the mustanges you can do the same thing/?
what about like a ford explorer rack or something like that ???
put a 240SX rack into the mustang!!!
since i have the tierod mod on my car i had to take a big sledgehammer to my frame area and knock it all in so i can have my car low and not rub anywhere either.
i'm sure the mustanges you can do the same thing/?
what about like a ford explorer rack or something like that ???
put a 240SX rack into the mustang!!!
__________________
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
It's a difficult thing with the Fox. Imagine wheels that are at the max offset still hittting. The stockers still rubbed the fenderwells to the point of wearing a hole in them in my Fox. That and they would simply just not have enough angle available due to the whole design. As far as I know, the Exploder rack would never be a feasable bolt on.
If I built a Fox Mustang for pure drift, it would be carbed and have the following:
D&D tubular k-member, bump steer kit, coilovers, a-arms for the front, Steeda tubular swaybar
8.8 solid rear, Steeda AUCAS, aluminum boxed lowers, Eibach race springs, 50/50 lakewood shocks, Steeda add on sway bar (add on to existing sway bar)
Subframe connectors (welded), 4 point cage
18x7's in front, 18x9's rear on nitto 555's
A very similer combo was on my mom's 99 Cobra and that thing was a sideways machine. Her 03 IRS is just not the same.
If I built a Fox Mustang for pure drift, it would be carbed and have the following:
D&D tubular k-member, bump steer kit, coilovers, a-arms for the front, Steeda tubular swaybar
8.8 solid rear, Steeda AUCAS, aluminum boxed lowers, Eibach race springs, 50/50 lakewood shocks, Steeda add on sway bar (add on to existing sway bar)
Subframe connectors (welded), 4 point cage
18x7's in front, 18x9's rear on nitto 555's
A very similer combo was on my mom's 99 Cobra and that thing was a sideways machine. Her 03 IRS is just not the same.
Hey, look at what i found out.
the fox bodies have steering restrictors installed where the rack meets the inner tierod to keep the factory wheels from hitting..

if you remove them, it's just like installing a steering spacer. and you can do more than that!! Its only a few washers away from getting just that little bit more that you need to hold a more aggressive angle.
combine that with re locating the steering rack like this guy did on www.driftfox.com and you'll be able to fit the wheels perfectly without rubbing, and get LOTS more angle.
http://www.driftfox.com/RackBushings.htm
You just gotta get flush, non titanic wheels !!
TE37's work nicely:
the fox bodies have steering restrictors installed where the rack meets the inner tierod to keep the factory wheels from hitting..

if you remove them, it's just like installing a steering spacer. and you can do more than that!! Its only a few washers away from getting just that little bit more that you need to hold a more aggressive angle.
combine that with re locating the steering rack like this guy did on www.driftfox.com and you'll be able to fit the wheels perfectly without rubbing, and get LOTS more angle.
http://www.driftfox.com/RackBushings.htm
You just gotta get flush, non titanic wheels !!
TE37's work nicely:
__________________
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
ok, that fox is hot. so is the one in the link.
it would be great to see lots of foxs out on the sling.
something away from the norm.
it would be great to see lots of foxs out on the sling.
something away from the norm.
__________________
------------------------------------------------
Andrew Carroll @ XAT RACING

team v8 in the works. hold one tango.....
hot hot heat in the cup!!!
------------------------------------------------
Andrew Carroll @ XAT RACING

team v8 in the works. hold one tango.....
hot hot heat in the cup!!!



