slick guys, tire pressure?
Back to my idea, most slicks have small holes in them to detemine wear. These are the holes you use to measure tread depth. I don't understand how getting your tires wet and driving down the driveway is going to determine correct contact patch. When you launch, the tire expands changing the contact patch of the tire, pulling up and down the driveway with a waterhose in hand cannot duplicate dragstrip launching conditions. If you are consistant and check the change in tread depth after every pass, it is very easy to determine whether or not you are using too much or too little air. Once you have acheived a even patch if you are still spinning then you might want to consider a different compound or larger slicks.
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show
it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show
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Originally posted by BigBadBuick
So you leave your sand there for the next guy to pick up? Jeez, thanks Scott
I would say alway do a water burn out with slicks, it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show, but it's easier on your drivetrain than a dry hop, and you'll know for sure your tires are clean and warm, just stay away from the dirt Scott just put down
So you leave your sand there for the next guy to pick up? Jeez, thanks Scott
I would say alway do a water burn out with slicks, it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show, but it's easier on your drivetrain than a dry hop, and you'll know for sure your tires are clean and warm, just stay away from the dirt Scott just put down
And I will beg to differ on what is harder on the car. 10-15 seconds in a waterbox vs. one slap of the throttle ? HmmmmThe knocking off the sand part came as a suggestion from the track manager (Wade) many years ago. And I find him to be far more credible than any of us since he is the man that preps the track surface. But you guys do want you want I know nothing.
Originally posted by Scott
I know nothing.
I know nothing.

A 2nd gear burnout slightly slipping the clutch from about 3k rpms to get the tires going doesn't seem it would be bad on the drivetrain at all.
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one slap on the throttle with a dry slick will be a lot rougher on the drivetrain than doing a burnout after initially getting the slicks wet.
Also, if the track temp is high, you will want to make sure that your slick is up to operating temperature so it will work properly, as with the track that hot it'll be greasy. With a hot track you're adjusting your power coming out of the hole, suspension, etc. If the track is hot, the prep of it will have less affect than what you do to adjust for a greasy track...
IMHO I would only dry hop if you're using a radial tire (not Drag Radial) as proceeding to do a burnout with them will only make them greasy...
Just my .02
Also, if the track temp is high, you will want to make sure that your slick is up to operating temperature so it will work properly, as with the track that hot it'll be greasy. With a hot track you're adjusting your power coming out of the hole, suspension, etc. If the track is hot, the prep of it will have less affect than what you do to adjust for a greasy track...
IMHO I would only dry hop if you're using a radial tire (not Drag Radial) as proceeding to do a burnout with them will only make them greasy...
Just my .02
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Originally posted by alternativeauto
Back to my idea, most slicks have small holes in them to detemine wear. These are the holes you use to measure tread depth. I don't understand how getting your tires wet and driving down the driveway is going to determine correct contact patch. When you launch, the tire expands changing the contact patch of the tire, pulling up and down the driveway with a waterhose in hand cannot duplicate dragstrip launching conditions. If you are consistant and check the change in tread depth after every pass, it is very easy to determine whether or not you are using too much or too little air. Once you have acheived a even patch if you are still spinning then you might want to consider a different compound or larger slicks.
Back to my idea, most slicks have small holes in them to detemine wear. These are the holes you use to measure tread depth. I don't understand how getting your tires wet and driving down the driveway is going to determine correct contact patch. When you launch, the tire expands changing the contact patch of the tire, pulling up and down the driveway with a waterhose in hand cannot duplicate dragstrip launching conditions. If you are consistant and check the change in tread depth after every pass, it is very easy to determine whether or not you are using too much or too little air. Once you have acheived a even patch if you are still spinning then you might want to consider a different compound or larger slicks.
If there is too much air in the tires, they will leave a mark skinnier than the actual tread of the tire. In other words, if a 26 x 10 tire is leaving a 5 inch wide mark, you should probably take it down some, unless, as mentioned, the rim is too narrow for the tire, then it will never sit right. Once you get them to where they are leaving a mark the entire width of the tread (or as close as they will get with the rim you are using), that is a good starting point, and you can adjust down from there until you get a good bite. All I was talking about was a starting point, no tread depth guage is going to tell you what pressure to run. In all honesty, you are probably not going to be riding on the entire width of the tire once they start expanding at higher speeds anyway. One does not need to actually measure tread depth, one glance at the tire, and you can see the wear pattern, we're not talking 60,000 mile radials here
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Originally posted by Scott
I am not off roading with the damn things, geeeeze ! You pick up the sand from just driving through the pits and return road. On a hot day when the ground is already 120+ degrees I see no use in burning out. If I can get 1.41 60ft. times doing this way let me know if you have something that nets you better times.
And I will beg to differ on what is harder on the car. 10-15 seconds in a waterbox vs. one slap of the throttle ? Hmmmm
The knocking off the sand part came as a suggestion from the track manager (Wade) many years ago. And I find him to be far more credible than any of us since he is the man that preps the track surface. But you guys do want you want I know nothing.
I am not off roading with the damn things, geeeeze ! You pick up the sand from just driving through the pits and return road. On a hot day when the ground is already 120+ degrees I see no use in burning out. If I can get 1.41 60ft. times doing this way let me know if you have something that nets you better times.
And I will beg to differ on what is harder on the car. 10-15 seconds in a waterbox vs. one slap of the throttle ? HmmmmThe knocking off the sand part came as a suggestion from the track manager (Wade) many years ago. And I find him to be far more credible than any of us since he is the man that preps the track surface. But you guys do want you want I know nothing.
) is easier on your drivetrain. What do I know anyway, I'm just an idiot. What's your car weigh Scott? I guess a 1.61 ain't too shabby for a 4300 pound car with monroe sensatrac shocks and front sway bar, huh? I guess the next track day I better bring my micrometer to check my tread depth and stick to dry hops, God, I feel stupid after all these years....................
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Your the one trying to argue man. I have grown up in a drag racing family that has been racing competitively for quite a few years in cars and full drag bikes. I spent many weekends at the track watching my crew and many others use this practice to determine what pressure to run on they're full slicks. This may not be your way and I am not saying your way is wrong, I am just simply sharing an idea that I have seen used by many semi-pro teams my father used to race with. Anyone can keep guessing all they want, but its should be simple to understand that if you are wearing the slick evenly then you are getting a better contact which should result in better traction. I'm not claiming to be completely right and a know it all, just sharing past experience.
Originally posted by alternativeauto
Your the one trying to argue man. I have grown up in a drag racing family that has been racing competitively for quite a few years in cars and full drag bikes. I spent many weekends at the track watching my crew and many others use this practice to determine what pressure to run on they're full slicks. This may not be your way and I am not saying your way is wrong, I am just simply sharing an idea that I have seen used by many semi-pro teams my father used to race with. Anyone can keep guessing all they want, but its should be simple to understand that if you are wearing the slick evenly then you are getting a better contact which should result in better traction. I'm not claiming to be completely right and a know it all, just sharing past experience.
Your the one trying to argue man. I have grown up in a drag racing family that has been racing competitively for quite a few years in cars and full drag bikes. I spent many weekends at the track watching my crew and many others use this practice to determine what pressure to run on they're full slicks. This may not be your way and I am not saying your way is wrong, I am just simply sharing an idea that I have seen used by many semi-pro teams my father used to race with. Anyone can keep guessing all they want, but its should be simple to understand that if you are wearing the slick evenly then you are getting a better contact which should result in better traction. I'm not claiming to be completely right and a know it all, just sharing past experience.
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