Best Reaction time?
3.73 gears and exhaust, k&n drop in and some 8 inch slicks 
I have a pro 5.0 and subframe connectors, removed front sway bar. Bunch of really insignificant stuff that adds up and makes it somewhat quick.
Oh, and generally my reaction times are in the 600-700 range at sunshine because I'm focusing on et rather than beating my opponent. Now that I have the et down I'll try and get some kills

I have a pro 5.0 and subframe connectors, removed front sway bar. Bunch of really insignificant stuff that adds up and makes it somewhat quick.
Oh, and generally my reaction times are in the 600-700 range at sunshine because I'm focusing on et rather than beating my opponent. Now that I have the et down I'll try and get some kills
__________________
-Vince
-Vince
This will be my first full season back drag racing a full points schedule since back in the early 90's racing a motorcyle. Down here at Immokalee when you are racing at a points night, you'd better be .515 or .015 or below or you're likely going on the trailer or buying back in for second round. About 5 weeks ago I went 6 rounds plus 4 passes in T&T and time passes and I never had over a .518 light - this included one .500 and two .501's. The .500 got me lane choice in one round which helped me put a dragster on the trailer. I do have a Pro Cube electronics box which has 4 built-in timers and allows me to 'fine tune' my reaction time along with crossing over if the opponent leaves before me timewise and I have to give chase. I've only crossed over twice so far and had .518 and .516 lights respectively. It's tougher crossing over as you leave off the opponents top bulb which is at an angle pointed towards him to it's tougher to see and you leave later, you take a few numbers out of the box when crossing over due to this fact. Less numbers in the starting delay during the day as it is harder to see the light and then more at night because you see the light better as it gets dark.
It's definately a wild game these days compared to the old days, but the race is basically won or lost at the light unless both racers cut nearly identical lights, then it would be who does not break out or goes over their dial-in by the smallest margin. You still have to 'take the line' to win, but as I learned last week, judging the line is tough - I lost by .002, had a .512 reaction time and ran a 6.028 on a 6.03 dial and lost by 2 thousands, bummer! Good race though!
See you all at the track event this Sat & stop by & chat!
~ Spencer
Owner/Driver
Lamination Station Racing
It's definately a wild game these days compared to the old days, but the race is basically won or lost at the light unless both racers cut nearly identical lights, then it would be who does not break out or goes over their dial-in by the smallest margin. You still have to 'take the line' to win, but as I learned last week, judging the line is tough - I lost by .002, had a .512 reaction time and ran a 6.028 on a 6.03 dial and lost by 2 thousands, bummer! Good race though!
See you all at the track event this Sat & stop by & chat!
~ Spencer
Owner/Driver
Lamination Station Racing
my best on track day was a .022
i also thought that the best was a .500 but then i noticed no red light.. all in all i had decentreaction times then...
.022
.069
.152
.163
i also thought that the best was a .500 but then i noticed no red light.. all in all i had decentreaction times then...
.022
.069
.152
.163
__________________
Jonas
2001 Nissan Maxima GLE FORSALE.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/3952387467.html
For sale: tool cart, air tools, welding stuff, sata jet RP digital spray gun + more
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/tls/3952277623.html
Jonas
2001 Nissan Maxima GLE FORSALE.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/3952387467.html
For sale: tool cart, air tools, welding stuff, sata jet RP digital spray gun + more
http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/tls/3952277623.html



