If anyone can give advice please do so!


This is the situation. Fully charged battery hooked up, no juice.. none.

My question is: How much of the power does the ignition switch control? I am not asking for voltage, but what is turned on by the switch itself?

This is what I am coming up with myself..I haven't gotten any ideas or help yet.

Is it possible that the ignition switch is shot and killed all power to the car?

Or is the main Fuseable link from the battery fried, but I assume that would be easy to see, being it would be burnt, Correct?


I assumed that the power going inside the car was split, One line to the ignition switch and the other line to the fuseblock, Correct?

So either both lines are fried or they are tied together somewhere to make a complete circuit, but I always thought the lights worked without the keys in the car, Correct?

This is what I have checked so far. Battery is charged, terminals are tight and clean. All lines on terminals are fairly clean and tight. I checked all fuses, none are blown. I checked the CPU, all appears good.

The problem occured while driving the car, it just died and that was it...Now that I played with the car more, I found that the car has a very bad draw without the keys on, so I assume I have a short somewhere, Correct? I was going to pull a fuse @ a time and see if the draw goes away and thus finding the bad curcuit, I assume this is the correct way to find this? Is there any common way to test fuseable links, beside probing into the insulation?

Thank you for any help on this.

Levi

PS:My quess is this car should run mid 12s, so if you can help me out, I will give you as many 12s runs as you can handle.

 

You pull on them... Damn never heard of that one.. Thanks.

But I now have a issue. If I try to put the battery in, it starts to melt the terminals. Yes melting them...!!!!!

I assume I could hook the battery up in series and use the voltmeter as the connecting point? Or would it melt the voltmeter..I have to ask the voltmeter isn't mine....

 

That last question was stupid.

I am going to see, if the voltmeter melts....lol

 

No pinched wires so far, I have looked over the entire harness up to 3 inch within the firewall. I have not pulled on them yet..lol


Ah Yes the inline connector. I know him well.

Its all tight.

 

Okay this is what I got now. I think I have a shorted starter wire. When I put the voltmeter on ground and that lead wire, the buzzer goes off, so either the wire rubbed through,or somehow the wires touched down by the starter.. Is this normal? Or is it possible, I noticed these starter wires have plastic coating near the starter connections. mine weren't exactly the best, and I taped them, have you ever heard of them coming loose and touching each other?

 

The wire touched on the heat sheild. The car starts now...but doesn't run.

 

bring the car to my house and let me play with it as mine is all apart and going under a major surgery, the positive wire to the starter seems to be a common problem on our cars since the exhaust manifold&vturbo sits on top of it.