Joined: May 2005

Posts: 104,927

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Well, I finished the subframe connectors. And all without a bender. Which saved me about a bill or so.

It's constructed with all .120 steel tubing(just shy of 1/8in). The front to back from the unibody frame to the rear (just before the wheel well) with 1x2. I constructed a shell to wrap around the front subrame with .120 plate steel, which was bolted in place and then welded. There's a 90 degree corner that goes off of that to align the straight path to the rear which is attached to a plate that is bolted and welded to the body/subframe there. The corner was reinforced with a plate of steel welded to it.

The center of the subframe was constructed by 1x1 (.120) steel tubing. One angle was attached to the shell surrounding the front unibody contact point, and the other one was angled off the rear contact, meeting at the center stock driveshaft tunnel. The stock center support was fitted with a section of plate steel and welded underneath it to strengthen it up.

I also added some hockey pucks to provide some jack points. They're really durable and they fit well. I bought an extra one for the floor jack to keep from marring up the paint underneath. They work great.

Overall, it's a great setup. I have a better launch. The car doesn't twist and lift like it used to. It now squats down and digs in, which is very nice. It was worth the time and effort. You can purchase a pre-made setup that you can bolt on and then weld for around 300 bucks. I spent around 60 bucks in material from a local steel fabricator shop, and around 30 bucks for the rods to weld it. The time was well spent.Attached Thumbnails