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Can someone lend a hand with the vac line situation

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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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Default Can someone lend a hand with the vac line situation

OK so far through my modding process I have managed to keep my vac lines all stock and in-tact, which to me is a good thing b/c they can get so damn confusing and there are so many different theories on them.

But now that I have a wideband and egt monitoring device its time to install the map clamp which means I have to get rid of the vac line that changes boost based on temp and altitude. So what exactly am I supposed to do...I have heard to take off the green line from the turbo and run another line from the turbo to the wastegate with my MBC in between.

I know there is a black and a green line involved but i'm not in front of my car right now, can anybody just chime in and straighten this out for me? I know my MBC t's in right now between my turbo and my WGA...I'm going to be working on this tonight so any input would help, and don't tell me to just cap them all or anything b/c thats not how I want to run it, I just want to deactivate if you will the line that changes boost b/c once I clamp the map voltage I need to keep the boost level constant. Thanks.

Rob
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:54 AM
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I just went to AGP's website and they say to take off the green and black lines from the #2 solenoid and run a MBC inline between the turbo and wastegate, seem ok to run a map clamp on this setup?
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CobraSpdRH
I just went to AGP's website and they say to take off the green and black lines from the #2 solenoid and run a MBC inline between the turbo and wastegate, seem ok to run a map clamp on this setup?
Excellent choice, kill the green/black line.
Be careful with teh clamp.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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That's what I did at the track on Saturday, I switched from the stock lines on the Stage 2 Wastegate to the green line from the turbo, into the boost controler and then to the wastegate and I disconnected both the green and black from the stock solenoid.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 03:16 PM
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Yup, just hooked it up and was out tuning, gonna get it right tomorrow at Sunshine... seems as if I need an AGP wastegate, I'm not holding as much boost as I would like. We'll see what happens tomorrow
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 06:52 PM
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What wastegate do you have? I know that the stage 2 was only giving me 7 psi by itself and at the track on Saturday with the boost controller hooked up I was getting a 16 spike and then dropping to 10 psi and ran a 14.6 since it was less boost than stock. I need to get a new AGP and use that by itself since that seems to get the best results from what I have read at srtforums.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 05:41 AM
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Yeah I am running the stage 2 wastegate with a MBC and I was toying around with the setup yesterday and the best I could hold was like 12-13 psi while spiking around 18. Does anybody here actually have a map clamp installed? I did mine yesterday and I'm going to the track (Sunshine) to tune it tonight but I want to know how you check the clamping voltage. At idle with a voltmeter all you see is the .6 volts or whatever b/c you are at no boost so do you have to be at WOT to see what it clamps at? I would rather know what volt the map clamp is set at before I go and run the car, I have A/F and EGT guages and will be datalogging but I'd really like to know "ok this time its set at 4.2v lets see how it does" or "ok this time its set at 4.1v lets see how it is different". Any ideas?
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 09:09 AM
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You need to read the map signal voltage with a multimeter. Tune the map clamp to get the voltage that you want to clamp at. 4.0 - 4.2 seems to be what most people are doing.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 10:08 AM
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Yeah but thats just it, when the car is idleing you get the lowest read out, in order to see what you are clamping at you have to have the multimeter on the clamp @WOT which is kinda complicated at the track vs. on the dyno
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CobraSpdRH
Yeah but thats just it, when the car is idleing you get the lowest read out, in order to see what you are clamping at you have to have the multimeter on the clamp @WOT which is kinda complicated at the track vs. on the dyno
Put the car to on, pull the map from the manifold
Get an air tank, and SLOWLY! pressureize the map. Pressurize till you see close to 5V, and then adjust the clamp to read what you want to set it at.
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