I have a 95 Neon Sohc auto. Just had a rebuilt tranny put in along with other minor things done to it. Now the problem is this, The car will idle very roughly and/or cut out when i stop at a light. Also (and this may be the trannny breaking in) it will surge at higher speeds. I was wondering if anyone out there had any similar problems or advice because this damn car has me broke...again.

 

What do you mean by surge? Does the car stumble during acceleration and then kick in, or does it all of a sudden start pulling harder? Any check engine light?

 

^ Answer those questions...

Also, it wont hurt to check your TPS wire/sensor for the time being.

 

At roughly 45 to 50 mph it will push forward quickly then back like a rocking motion front to back The rpm needle is also jumpy during these outbursts. The check engine is on. It idles very roughly, shutting off sometimes and it has relatively normal acceleration charicteristics until about 2500 rpm when it starts to push. I called it surge but I guess thats not exactly correct thank you for asking me to clarify and not ignoring me like other websites namely Neonz.org.

 

Haha,

so have u pulled the code? That should lead you to the problem. Goto autoZone...they can pull it for free.

Could be anything with misfire OR tps leading the way.

 

Or check your codes yourself at the house...

1) Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds.
2) Count the number of times the 'Check Engine' lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the dash lights to respond. It does not mean to crank the engine.

Code Description of Trouble Code

11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value;
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor;
No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in manifold absolute pressure (MAP) from start to run
14 Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor voltage out of range
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02 sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or downstream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle position sensor (TPS) out of range, or disagrees with MAP
25 Idle air control motor circuits problem, target idle not reached (+/- 200), vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit problem
31 Evaporator purge flow monitor failure or evaporator solenoid circuit problem
32 Exhaust gas recirculating (EGR) system failure or solenoid circuit problem
33 A/C clutch relay circuit problem
34 Speed control solenoid circuits problem
35 Radiator fan control relay circuit problem
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit problem
Auto shutdown (ASD) relay control circuit problem
No ASD relay output voltage at PCM
Fuel level sending unit - volts out of range
Fuel level sending unit - no change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too high
47 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal controller failure
54 No cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure - SRI mile not stored
63 PCM failure - EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

 

95's have the on-off test?

 

i have a 99 dohc auto. my car has idle rough at stops a few times out of no where it seemed like the car was about to shut and the rpm's varied alot. when i opend the hood the motor was moving foward and backward with the rpm's alot. my problem was shitty gas i put injector cleaner and some stuff to get water out of the gas just in case and it worked fine afterwards.just a thought but the ignition check is a good thing maby you could sind sometion that no one elst thought of