OK folks, I am having a bit of an issue with my roll cage in my 1995 Civic Coupe, so I've come here for advice/help...


The problem is that the location of the rear mounting plates in the rear floor pan, is covering a couple bolts on the driver's side of the spare tire well, which probably isnt the best idea... It is my understanding that those plates must remain 6"x6" square (to be cert.), so I guess I can't notch them to make the bolts accesible, but what if I were to remove those plates, and put new plates that were off centered a bit to allow access to the bolts. Does the tube have to be mounted center in the plate, or would my idea to move it over a bit work?

Here are some Pictures to illustrate what I'm talking about... Your input is greatly appreciated...


Passenger side mount plate (ok)


Driver's side mount plate (no bueno)

 

Not sure what those bolts go to, but I'd consider removing them, banging the plate to fit the contour of the trunk floor, drilling the plate and then putting the bolts (or longer ones) back in.

Would likely be the simplest solution.

 

I Agree.....

 

Like mentioned earlier, I fail to see why it would be an issue to just drill the holes through the plate. You are not removing any mechanical integrity from the plate due to the fact that it will be through bolted on top of being welded. If its because the holes are on the edge of the plate rather than somewhat more in the middle of them, just make the plate bigger.

Hope what I said is helpful, it sounds like this is the only solution.

 

I'm guessing this is a drag race car? Shouldn't the downtubes in trunk be attached to something more significant than the thin metal of the trunk floor? i.e. strut tower. It seems the sharp corners of the base plate is going to open that up like a can opener if you every really need the cage to work for you.

 

Eventually there will be two more down tubes, running to a horizontal tube between the strut towers... The reason these are run the way they are is more for the fact that it will make installing the parachute way easier... But these tubes do sit almost directly over the cars frame rails... Many people have done the cages in these cars this way, however I don't know if anyone has been able to actually roll one of these cars yet...

On a side note, the cage in this car will probably end up getting done piece by piece, A)for financial reasons mainly, and B) because I would rather have as little as possible (only whats needed) as this is still a street driven car.. As I get some seat time and see what this car will really be capable of, and do some more research, I will proceed with the cage as needed, the best way possible...

 

What tubing material is that, it REALLY takes pictures bright like stainless.

Here is the typical deal.. depending on what rule set your building to they have minimum and maximum Plate sizes I would assume 6"sq is a minimum recommendation so going bigger is not an issue.. feel free to bolt through the plate it will not harm a thing.. typically when I build a cage I try to move all braces as close to the corner as possible so I can tie a box or plate into two surfaces. AT LEAST two in the case of a main hoop boxes. the closer to a corner seam or "subframe" rail the stronger you'll be.

 

It's mild steel... I think I have got it figured out, just need to find someone to weld all the mount plates now

 

Take it to Roque!!!! Call me I will help you take it up and there and what not he is prob the sickest welder in town!!!!

 

You gonna help me pay for it to??? The whole reason the cage didnt get finished was because the money was better spent elsewhere, like getting the car running!!! lol