1997 Ford Mustang GT for sale, autoX, RR car
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1997 Ford Mustang GT for sale, autoX, RR car
1997 Ford Mustang GT 5spd
>90,000 miles (odometer stopped, speedo works)
With race rubber it will do very well in SM.
Here's the whole mod list:
Stock 4.6 block and heads. Aftermarket enlarged upper intake plenum, matched to a 75mm TB. 3" CAI to a K&N style filter. Ported stock MAF (enlarged 3mm, with center post removed, at least 6sq-cm increase).
Superchips custom tune by Reinhart Performance in Jax. New plug wires and NGK TR55IX plugs. Fresh coolant 20/80 antifreeze and 165^ thermostat and redline. Heats up just above cold start, and gets NO HOTTER. The exhaust is stock headers with UPR offroad X-pipe and flowmaster 40 series mufflers, dumped before the axle.
New SPEC billet flywheel and clutch. Steeda Triax shifter. Steeda clutch quadrant and adjustable cable. Ford motorsports 3.73:1 rear gears.
The car was tuned to support all of the above modifications.
THe suspension has been replaced. Front and rear Maximum Motorsports coil overs with hypercoil springs, and bilstein shocks and struts. Stock strut tower brace. Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt caster-camber plates. Maximum Motorsports aluminum lower control arms with NO spring perch.
The interior is black leather and is in EXCELLENT condition. The windows are tinted. The dash is in awesome condition. If you wanted to make the car full race, the interior is in a condition VERY conducive to parting out. The tires are only a year old. Kumho SPTs 245/45WR17s on 2002 Bullitt rims. Such awesome tires.
To stay straight, the transmission works, but I plan on rebuilding/replacing it this fall if I keep the car. Only because I want it to shift better.
The only things left from my original plan for the car are: race rims and DOT slicks, a torque arm and panhard bar combo to finish the suspension, and I was going to install subframes. OTherwise, the car is race ready.
When you're doing 55mph and yank the steering wheel, the front end just GOES. Understeer is extinct.
$6000 car with over $8000 in go fast, = roughly $9200 for a reply from this board.
I'll post pics soon. I have to get off work early enough to TAKE pics.
>90,000 miles (odometer stopped, speedo works)
With race rubber it will do very well in SM.
Here's the whole mod list:
Stock 4.6 block and heads. Aftermarket enlarged upper intake plenum, matched to a 75mm TB. 3" CAI to a K&N style filter. Ported stock MAF (enlarged 3mm, with center post removed, at least 6sq-cm increase).
Superchips custom tune by Reinhart Performance in Jax. New plug wires and NGK TR55IX plugs. Fresh coolant 20/80 antifreeze and 165^ thermostat and redline. Heats up just above cold start, and gets NO HOTTER. The exhaust is stock headers with UPR offroad X-pipe and flowmaster 40 series mufflers, dumped before the axle.
New SPEC billet flywheel and clutch. Steeda Triax shifter. Steeda clutch quadrant and adjustable cable. Ford motorsports 3.73:1 rear gears.
The car was tuned to support all of the above modifications.
THe suspension has been replaced. Front and rear Maximum Motorsports coil overs with hypercoil springs, and bilstein shocks and struts. Stock strut tower brace. Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt caster-camber plates. Maximum Motorsports aluminum lower control arms with NO spring perch.
The interior is black leather and is in EXCELLENT condition. The windows are tinted. The dash is in awesome condition. If you wanted to make the car full race, the interior is in a condition VERY conducive to parting out. The tires are only a year old. Kumho SPTs 245/45WR17s on 2002 Bullitt rims. Such awesome tires.
To stay straight, the transmission works, but I plan on rebuilding/replacing it this fall if I keep the car. Only because I want it to shift better.
The only things left from my original plan for the car are: race rims and DOT slicks, a torque arm and panhard bar combo to finish the suspension, and I was going to install subframes. OTherwise, the car is race ready.
When you're doing 55mph and yank the steering wheel, the front end just GOES. Understeer is extinct.
$6000 car with over $8000 in go fast, = roughly $9200 for a reply from this board.
I'll post pics soon. I have to get off work early enough to TAKE pics.
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-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
Is now ballin!
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Explain this, b/c any car just goes when you yank the wheel at 55... 
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"To stay straight, the transmission works, but I plan on rebuilding/replacing it this fall if I keep the car. Only because I want it to shift better."
so basically it works but not that well?
so basically it works but not that well?
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2003 Cobra VMP TVS
2003 Cobra VMP TVS
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Steering question: turn in is instant and the front end sticks, how do you want me to quantatively analyze how well the front end stays planted? How's this: it handles better than my STi and the STi has RE070s (the mustang is on SPTs), or this: through the same sweeper the mustang will go 10-15mph faster than my STi AND at the same 90 deg corner the Mustang can enter at 10mph faster and never leave the correct lane, while the STi pushes into the oncoming lane (2 lane rd)
Now, the transmission: I do not baby the transmission. I know it's going to break eventually. After all, it has >90k miles on it. The synchros aren't doing the job they SHOULD be doing, but it's not grinding gears and every gear engages without noise. However, there is more effort to shift then there was when I got the car.
All 6 gears (5+r) work, and if you're just going to drive the car I'd say it'll work for a good while. But if you plan on racing the car, which you should, then my recommendation is to plan on giving it a newer/fresher tranny. Does that clarify?
Thanks for the questions/comments.
I WILL DELIVER THE CAR TO MOST AREAS, or at least meet somewhere in between. I live in GA, but i visit family in Lakeland on occassion. And yes, this car will definitely make the trip. I have the utmost confidence in the streetability of this car.
Now, the transmission: I do not baby the transmission. I know it's going to break eventually. After all, it has >90k miles on it. The synchros aren't doing the job they SHOULD be doing, but it's not grinding gears and every gear engages without noise. However, there is more effort to shift then there was when I got the car.
All 6 gears (5+r) work, and if you're just going to drive the car I'd say it'll work for a good while. But if you plan on racing the car, which you should, then my recommendation is to plan on giving it a newer/fresher tranny. Does that clarify?
Thanks for the questions/comments.
I WILL DELIVER THE CAR TO MOST AREAS, or at least meet somewhere in between. I live in GA, but i visit family in Lakeland on occassion. And yes, this car will definitely make the trip. I have the utmost confidence in the streetability of this car.
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-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
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TTT
buy me
buy me
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-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
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no really
TTT
and all sales are OBO, don't let anyone tell you different.
TTT
and all sales are OBO, don't let anyone tell you different.
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-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
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No, it just stopped working and I haven't had time to look in to fixing it. Nor do I care, the car is for racing.
If i had 'unplugged' my odometer why wouldn't I just plug it back in and not tell you? That wasn't the brightest of questions.
If i had 'unplugged' my odometer why wouldn't I just plug it back in and not tell you? That wasn't the brightest of questions.
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-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
-Shawn
(2 posts my a$$, I posted plenty in the autox section 3-4 years ago... GOD, i go on deployment ONE time and you reset my counter? lol)
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Originally Posted by 138MustangGT
No, it just stopped working and I haven't had time to look in to fixing it. Nor do I care, the car is for racing.
If i had 'unplugged' my odometer why wouldn't I just plug it back in and not tell you? That wasn't the brightest of questions.
If i had 'unplugged' my odometer why wouldn't I just plug it back in and not tell you? That wasn't the brightest of questions.
i think he said that because you could have un-plugged it and NOT told anyone to keep miles off the car..
