cos rivalry adds another level of excitement Dan

youmight be right leonard.. from what i have heard and with the info here --> http://www.mach1registry.com/Specs/Specs.htm the bullit and mach1 are almost identical.. only diff is shocks and sway bars..

what diff is the thicker front sway and leaner rear sway going to have ? .. is it better to be beefier in the rear and less in the front ?.. or visa verser ?

 

Okay, I've GOT to start ignoring email and get some work done today, but...

Stiffer front, softer rear = less oversteer, more ability to (drumroll please) put power down in a corner!

The R-model Miata suspension was the same way. Same springs as stock, stiffer shocks, slightly bigger front bar, slightly smaller rear bar. Go figure.

Ahhhh... good ol' friendly rivalries. It does add a fun dimension to the sport, even for those who aren't competing seriously.

 

Thicker up front is going to help, help, help. Because of the AWFUL camber curve of the mcmuffin strut we have up front, the more spring rate you can put under it the better. It doesn't fix the problem, but it fixes it by limiting suspension travel. Stick as much spring under the front as you can. (I went with coilovers because I can get more wheel rate with better ride quality).

The rear in your car is even worse than the front. You need to get rid of the 4 link bind monster. Torquearm panhard bar or watts link... they both work equally as well from what i've read, it's just a matter of preference... steeda 5 link?? the jury is still out.

The real difference between your car and a Bullitt is going to be the engine. The 2V doesn't put down the peak power/torque you do and it gets winded over 5k, but the torque curve is nice and broad. The 4V just doesn't have that same feel at the bottom end. (Ask Shawn Phillips about driving my car after his V8 2V automatic -- he claimed I had no torque). I think with proper gearing the Mach 1 will win out IF you can learn to keep it in the power band. The problem with that is that it becomes very unruly over 5k and wheelspin is the norm. The 275's (in back) seem to have aleviated this for me for the time being, but keep in mind that I still have 3.27 gears. Granted, I'm pushing 307hp/305tq at the wheels too....

 

thanks for the advice.. actually.. the mach1's torque curve is very fat.. its a diff engine from the 99/01 Cobra engine.. 03 Cobra heads.. Navigator Cams.. diff intake and 03 Cobra exhaust side.. so it actually has a nice fat torque curve.. i was roasting the rears in 2nd gear on sunday at 2K RPM.

front shocks..i have tokicos.. are they ok ?.. as for the rear.. your sugesting to get rid of the whole lot and redo it ?

(gonna split this out into a seperate thread i think.)

 

the only reason the green machine would be better than the mach is that it has a TON on low end grunt, granted the mach still has a little more than the 01 in the low end it is still based off of the 4v motor, it is the honda of the v8 world. the 2v romeo in the bullet was designed to keep up with the cobras because it had the low end, and if you compare a bullet and an 01 cobra they do make similar times at the track, the bullet gets better 60' and sometimes gets better ET in the 1/8th but at the end of the track the good ol' ford "vtec" for lack of a better term LMAO (sorry just wanted to say ford and vtec at the same time) just reels in the 2v and makes short work of it top end.

now as far as all that noise goes, i dont know that itwill make that big of a difference at the autox if, like leonard said, you can keep it in the powerband. as far as what i know about autox set up, my knowledge is mostly limited to wrong wheel drive where you want a fatter sway bar in the rear lol, however, i will try to ask kelly keiner, who was an FS/ESP GOD for a while, about set up. driving one of those is wierd (not sure about your mustang) I got a chance to drive one that was pretty well prepped (maybe not national prepped but very good locally prepped) and didnt adjust to the difference until my last run of the day. i know that with the stiffer suspension comes a whole new ball game with those. I know that in autox you want to try to brake in a straight line always, that said, I always drive my car a little hotter into the corner and a little deeper because i know how and when the brakes/ steering will respond. in the stang i was completely thrown by the fact that you CANNOT, i repeat, CANNOT brake in ANY kind of turn, you have to brake in a straight line and then coast through the turns then accel on the way out instead of coming in stilll under braking then moving straight from brake to accel and modulating throttle all the way through the turn. now dont get me wrong im not saying that this was a bad thing, im sure that given a little more practice i could be pretty good with the car it is just a little different.

my $0.02

 

I'd call StranoPerformance's tech line and TALK to them. They know more about car setup, and especially with pony cars than you can imagine.

 

zate sell it and get an ls1 lol!!!

 

lol. sure thing captain insano

btw.. decided to go with 245/45/17 all the way round.. took leonards and jomars advice and shied away from the 275 on a 8" rim