gritt

We used the same brake pads for Homestead and Sebring. Front and rear were Porterfield`s badass endurance race pads. After 2 races, the front still look brand new, after saturday at sebring, rears were metal to metal. What do you make of that? Calipers are all stock, drilled slotted rotors on the front and ss brake ines on the front. stock masta, no proportioning valve.

Loren

No real solid notions. Sebring is a LOT harder on brakes than Homestead. That's part of it.

But, why is it wiping out the rear pads so much more than the front?

Or... did you start the Sebring race with new front pads and 60-70% rear pads? Maybe you burned through 30% of the rear pads at Homestead and the greater demand for brakes at Sebring took out the other 70% (when you were expecting the same wear as Homestead)?

Or... maybe you need to fit a prop valve and ask less of your rear brakes?

treekiller

Need more info, car rear drum or disc, weight? You can bias more to the front like loren said (actually you just limit rear pressure) but typically this exhibits itself as rear brake lockup under hard braking. Bad enough to double the wear. Another option is a mislabeled box of pads. And are you running wider rear tires? Feed me info and I might puke up a correct answer

LDadrenaline

Unless your rear pads are dragging, I would be incredibly happy with that. They might wear out faster than usual, but that means you are actually USING them. problem with most cars is you are highly biased towards front brake. if you are using a lot of rear brake that means you are getting really good bias (maybe a hair too much rear but that isnt as big of a problem as too little rear). if anything, that means you can brake later than most. personally, I would be happy.

Car54

I suspect you have a problem with the front brakes not doing their job. You say they look new, and that's just not right. How was braking feel? Some dive in hard braking? I'd lose the drilled/slotted/dimpled/whatever front rotors and get some solid vented rotors to increase surface area...I don't think this is root cause however. How did your left car/right car pad wear ratio look? How about inboard/outboard pad ratio?

gritt

4 wheel disk. we have a pretty stiff front end, so dive on braking is somewhat minimal. brakes have always felt "slightly" soft (pedal feel) but they absolutely won`t fade. ever. tires/wheels were same.

car 54, brake pads l/r and inner/outer were very close to each other. nothing obvious jumping out there.

loren, i couldn`t tell you what the rears looked like prior to sebring, never looked at them myself. i`m sure stinky did tho. but no, the front and rear pads all went on new before homestead

treekiller, weight is estimated at 2800 maybe? we also would def lock up fronts before rears

thanks for the ideas guys

yamaha731

This may sound dumb are you venting the front and not the rear maybe your cooking the rears?

gritt

no venting/ducting yet

treekiller

I'm with yamnaha, fronts typically have some from of breathing, you might be literally cooking the rears and making them wear fast, and they are high end so your not feeling a fade. time for an I/R pyrometer.

w0rd

Don't track pads wear more when they are cold? Maybe they aren't getting enough heat? How is the balance of the car under braking?