I've really got the itch to run at an auto-x. I've been reading through the links at the top and I found that the biggest problem I'd have is my battery. A while back I ripped out (and threw away) the tray it sits on for a battery relocation I then decided I didn't like. Now it just kinda sits on the crossmember and transmission. The links emphasized that it can't move at all, so my first idea to throw some zip-ties around it doesn't seem good enough... or would it be? Maybe some bungee cords? How about if I got a really long worm-gear hose clamp and clamped it to the crossmember? Any advice on how sturdy this thing has to be and how I might get it to pass tech are welcomed, other than finding another battery tray- that thing always got in my way and I haven't missed it since I tossed it.

*Edit* Oh, and another question- how likely is it that they'll let me run my car with the cutout open? The thing is pretty slow with it closed and a lot laggier, but it's pretty loud with it open. It dumps right under my seat, so I think it just might pass the "exit behind driver" test if I adjusted the seat all the way up and it points to the side of the car.

 

+1 the last thing you want is your battery flying around in your engine compartment.

auto-x is more about skill than speed, so I would say keep the cut out closed and concentrate on braking and running the correct line.

 

I have passed tech with my battery zip tied on my 88 supra, but it was very secure and zip tied to the battery tray. It passed tech in Houston, Ft Myers, and here in Tampa.

 

Ok, I've been thinking about it and if I really need to have a battery tray, I guess I'll just have to fab one up, weld some brackets to the frame and weld together a tray I can bolt to them. I really like having the battery down low where it is now, and it has to stay there anyway because the intercooler piping I'm welding up in the next few days is going to go straight through the middle of where the battery sits on the stock tray.

I guess I could run with the cutout closed, it's just kinda annoying because the reason I went that way in the first place was so I could keep it quiet on the street then open it up at the race track. Maybe I'll open it at the tech inspection and ask if it's too loud. I don't think the power difference is a big deal because my suspension, tires and brakes are all too crummy to use more power, but the extra 500-1000 rpm of spool time it adds and extra lag is HUGE from what I know about auto-x.

 

AFAIK, only Ft Myers has a noise restriction. You can certainly use the cutout at Brooksville.

 

Best bet would be to snag an OE battery tray and tie-down or fab up something that will secure the battery. Bungee is not a good solution. Bungees fail pretty easily... especially in the presence of battery acid. Zip-ties are acceptable if they truly do the job. That means BIG zip-ties that secure the battery from movement in any direction.

 

zipties and bungees= no good. Like is being said go back to the factory tray if at all possible. That or reloacate back into the Hatch area. I have seen a few gs-t's auto- x and they all seem to be tail happy once the car starts to get whipped around some. The change in weight distribution might help. Just a thought though.

 

Mine's an AWD, I'm really not sure how it will handle on an Auto-X course. I had a battery relocation once and I didn't like it, an extra 10 pounds in cable, and the wiring in my car isn't great so the charging system didn't seem to like the extra distance to the battery.

I already went down to home depot and found the size of angle iron I need to make my own mount. It's on the list of projects after finishing my front mount piping, which is currently routed right through the middle of the stock battery location.