Trail Braking/ Controlling Understeer
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Trail Braking/ Controlling Understeer
Is this an effective technique for FWD cars? I had a LOT of understeer at the last Sunriders event. I feel this is due to:
1. My horrible stock Bridgestone Potenza RE92's.
2. No rear anti-sway.
3. Stock suspension which allows a good bit of body roll.
4. Me still learning how to drive fast properly.
I found myself often times in corners, coming out, having to get off the gas and work on unwinding the wheel slowly in order to overcome understeer.
Does trailbraking help to produce quicker lap times through getting rid of understeer, or would it make my slower through slower corner entry speed?
1. My horrible stock Bridgestone Potenza RE92's.
2. No rear anti-sway.
3. Stock suspension which allows a good bit of body roll.
4. Me still learning how to drive fast properly.
I found myself often times in corners, coming out, having to get off the gas and work on unwinding the wheel slowly in order to overcome understeer.
Does trailbraking help to produce quicker lap times through getting rid of understeer, or would it make my slower through slower corner entry speed?
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To start with, you're fighting an uphill battle. All cars (in stock form) will understeer. They are designed that way because it's safer. Understeer leads to spins and complete loss of control. With understeer, you always have some amount of control of the car and the bonus that you can see where you're going.
I'm not really much of a FWD guy, so I can't really answer whether it would be beneficial for your car.
It was an absolute necessity in my mustang. Of course mustangs (pre05) can't turn to begin with. In that car, I could actually use trailbraking to rotate the back end on entry and power to rotate it on exit.
When I drove Jesse's MR2, I was coming into a turn way too hot and trailbraked out of pure instinct. It came around on me in a heartbeat.
The FFR doesn't react well to it either. I can get away with a VERY limited amount of trailbraking, but the even weight distribution and short wheel base make it very difficult to manage and in all reality thus far, I've found it faster to just slow down to a speed that I can take the turn at and accelerate out.
Back to the scion. I'd imagine it might be able to help a little, BUT I don't know that it'll buy enough corner speed to be worth it... As always, slow in, fast out works.
I'm not really much of a FWD guy, so I can't really answer whether it would be beneficial for your car.
It was an absolute necessity in my mustang. Of course mustangs (pre05) can't turn to begin with. In that car, I could actually use trailbraking to rotate the back end on entry and power to rotate it on exit.
When I drove Jesse's MR2, I was coming into a turn way too hot and trailbraked out of pure instinct. It came around on me in a heartbeat.
The FFR doesn't react well to it either. I can get away with a VERY limited amount of trailbraking, but the even weight distribution and short wheel base make it very difficult to manage and in all reality thus far, I've found it faster to just slow down to a speed that I can take the turn at and accelerate out.
Back to the scion. I'd imagine it might be able to help a little, BUT I don't know that it'll buy enough corner speed to be worth it... As always, slow in, fast out works.
Originally Posted by BeQuietAndDrive
Bridgestone Potenza RE92's.
There's your first major problem. when i switched from the re92s to azenis i went from top 50% to top 25%. pax wise i mean. i still have a lot to learn but just tires makes a HUGE difference. understeer went DOWN quite a bit for me with simply better tires. which means i was driving way too fast for the 92s before.
and seriously do this on your next event. whatever you set the front tire pressure to, make sure the rear is ATLEAST 10 psi MORE. so 40/50 45/55 etc. don't worry about the max pressure readings. they are written so max COLD pressure is 51 so hot can go up quite a bit. and even then there is a huge factor of safety built in. so you could run 60psi and not pop the tire at an autoX. just don't drive on the highway like that.
i'm speaking about these tires pressures from experience. you NEED crazy pressure like that for the shitty ass re92s.
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Abhishek
Abhishek
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Ah, I see. I knew the stock WRX's ran the RE92's and I know the general concensus is how terrible they are.
At events I've been setting by tires to 32 front/36 rear. I was a tad worried to go over 40 psi, as that what was the stated max pressure.
And yeah, I guess I will just have to play around with my driving a bit. Maybe next event I'll have someone in another FWD car ride along with me to see how I'm doing. I know Loren has a lot of experience with FWD.
At events I've been setting by tires to 32 front/36 rear. I was a tad worried to go over 40 psi, as that what was the stated max pressure.
And yeah, I guess I will just have to play around with my driving a bit. Maybe next event I'll have someone in another FWD car ride along with me to see how I'm doing. I know Loren has a lot of experience with FWD.
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2. No rear anti-sway
^^^i disagree. atleast for WRXs, a completely stock WRX with azenis will be faster than my car with spring/struts swaybar, camber plates on the RE-92s. how do i know this? b/c i've driven a friend car which is completely stock but with azenis.
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Abhishek
Abhishek
Originally Posted by mrf582
^^^i disagree. atleast for WRXs, a completely stock WRX with azenis will be faster than my car with spring/struts swaybar, camber plates on the RE-92s. how do i know this? b/c i've driven a friend car which is completely stock but with azenis.
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-93 MR2, #129 ES
-93 MR2, #129 ES
Originally Posted by mrf582
^^^i disagree. atleast for WRXs, a completely stock WRX with azenis will be faster than my car with spring/struts swaybar, camber plates on the RE-92s. how do i know this? b/c i've driven a friend car which is completely stock but with azenis.
Plus with a lot of drivers (me included) its hard to tell if overdriving didn't cause a 'driver induced' understeer event. There isn't any car part that can prevent a driver from driving too fast and braking too late.
Actually I'm going to change my leading statement. Tires are the second biggest performance issue in Autocross. The loose nut behind the wheel is the first .......
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Chad
Chad
I've driven this car. It's not just that you have crappy all-season tires, it's that you have NARROW crappy all-season tires. Get some rubber under the car!
A stiffer rear bar will definitely help a FWD car get around better. And don't forget alignment. Negative camber will always help... and if you want to loosen up the back end, you might experiment with small doses of rear toe out.
But get some tires first.
A stiffer rear bar will definitely help a FWD car get around better. And don't forget alignment. Negative camber will always help... and if you want to loosen up the back end, you might experiment with small doses of rear toe out.
But get some tires first.
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