Ok, so isolating the batteries solves the mixing problem.

So how do you determine just how much battery you actually need?

And how to you figure out what battery is the best option? (ie, kinetik, odyssey etc etc )

 

yellow tops all depend on size and cost.. get the biggest you can fit at the price you can afford.. this will allow you to wire everything together..

for your question to determine how much battery you need... How often will you be playing it with the car off? do you play it full blast all the time? it has a lot to do with the charging capabilities of your alternator too.. if it is low amp when the pauses in the music come it won't be able to charge em in time.. a 140a alt like you were looking at will do pretty well as it is a stock alternator and not aftermarket.. stock have MUCH better idle amperage than aftermarket..

with 2000 watts an hc2000-2400 will work and a small up front.. two yellow tops together will work..

as for battery choices its like anything else.. Check out warranty, Cs, quality etc etc..

 

i wouldnt run yellow tops. get a higher AH rated batt like a lifeline, rps, decka ect. id run about 100ah per 1k watts your system is trying to supply. i run about 55oo rms and my amp wants about 500amps so i run a bunch of 100ah batts to keep everything happy. having a big bank keeps my voltage up. this is on a stock alt.

 

yeah, everyone does hate on optima for being "old technology" not that they are bad, but they aren't the newer AGM style batteries.

Looks like the best bang for your buck is the Die Hard Platinum series as they are relabeled Odyssey batteries.

 

Kinetik - Garbage. I walked away from a sponsorship with them because the product sucked.

Optima - Way overpriced. Yellowtops are ok, but Redtops suck for audio. You can do way better than Yellows for car audio.

Odyssey - Meh. Decent batteries, but you can still get a better battery for car audio, especially for the price.

Youre going to want to look into batteries such as C&D, Deka, RPS, Powerware, etc. They arent designed for car audio use, but they have a huge reserve, and are sealed batteries, which is exactly what you need. I have 3 C&D 100ah batteries in the back and a Deka battery up front, a 280a Powermaster alternator, and with a true 5000w on tap, I dont dip below 13.8v even when I crank it up for quite a few minutes.

As for your setup, if you get a 100ah C&D under the hood, and another one in the rear, even with the stock alt, you should be just fine on voltage.

 

Agree!

 

.....

 

The thing you have to consider when looking at your electrical system is it only works as good as your weakest point. If you are going to upgrade you electrical system it HAS to start with the alternator. This is where the power comes from. Batteries dont create voltage or amperage. A battery is a mass storage device for starting and voltage buffering(cleaning up the power created from your alternator). A alternator is only designed to run (1) alternator(unless it is specially built or special purpose). For the audio equipment that you have mentioned there is no need to run more than one battery unless you plan on listening to the stereo for long periods with the car off. If you were to run a extra battery you would want to run it thru a battery relay that is only active when the car is ON. This will alow your audio setup to run off of the second battery while the major electronics and starting duties are running off of the stock battery location. My recommendation is to upgrade all charging and grounding cables under your hood to the largest possible wire(true COPPER not the CCA BULLSHIT (40% less conductive)) and replace your battery with the battery of your choice. Spend the money that your allocated for a second battery on a upgraded alternator(ohiogen, Stinger, whoever you trust) and you should have no issues. The Lithium batteries that are made locally are pretty cool and really light weight. He makes them for Braille and also can custom build them for any application(he can make 3 batteries worth of cells in a single case). I think the website is Lithionics.com, but I could be wrong. I hope this helps in your decision.

 

i wouldnt count on this

 

wouldn't count on what part of it?

Edit: Oh, and gotta have the why part.