battery relocation
I replaced the OEM battery a couple months ago, big difference. Not only in power but in size. I couldnt find anything as tall as my stocker without getting it too wide (and expensive) either... So i put in some spacers and it looks ghetto as hell right now, but very functional. I'd love to put it in the trunk to free up engine space and distribute weight better.
I have a 4ga wire ran already through my car to the trunk for an amp i had back there. amp/sub died and i took it out. no desire to replace. I would prefer to leave that wire there and shorten it about 2 or 3 feet, since it's a little long. It's run directly from the engine bay, through the left channel of the car, to the back and the left side of the trunk. Should be 12-14 ft i believe.
using this chart:
So what i'm wondering is... i should be fine running the 4gauge, right? The alternator is at max 110 amps. I do not have anything aftermarket besides some HIDs (that run on lower amperage than stock halogens), the engine, interior lighting, the stock sound system, my carPC and monitor, and some red lights i have in the footwells and trunk... that's it. All should be well under 60 amps, let alone 110... i should be OK right?
Let me hear what you think.
Thanks for the suggestions/help.
I have a 4ga wire ran already through my car to the trunk for an amp i had back there. amp/sub died and i took it out. no desire to replace. I would prefer to leave that wire there and shorten it about 2 or 3 feet, since it's a little long. It's run directly from the engine bay, through the left channel of the car, to the back and the left side of the trunk. Should be 12-14 ft i believe.
using this chart:

So what i'm wondering is... i should be fine running the 4gauge, right? The alternator is at max 110 amps. I do not have anything aftermarket besides some HIDs (that run on lower amperage than stock halogens), the engine, interior lighting, the stock sound system, my carPC and monitor, and some red lights i have in the footwells and trunk... that's it. All should be well under 60 amps, let alone 110... i should be OK right?
Let me hear what you think.
Thanks for the suggestions/help.
__________________
LOGIC? You seriously want to invoke logic in a conversation about fake hijackings, missiles hitting the pentagon, and bombs planted throughout the world trade center? I thought it was a given that logic was checked at the door when entering one of these threads.
I see no problems with it. Remember your inline fuses though at the battery and at the engine compartment (150 amps should do it on each end). If the 4 ga wire were to short say in the door area if the car were wrecked, you run the risk of turning the car into a big welder-massive fire, possible explosions.
Some don't deem it necessary, we do. I won't do a battery relocation here without it (or add second battery). I would rather pass on the job...
Some don't deem it necessary, we do. I won't do a battery relocation here without it (or add second battery). I would rather pass on the job...
__________________
Matt-check out these deals: https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/m...ood-stuff.html
MCOR Automotive LLC
mcorautomotivellc@verizon.net
www.mcorautomotive.com
1635 Dale Mabry Hwy Ste 3
Lutz, FL 33548
(813) 362-5454
"TR Official 12V Shop"- Automotive Audio/Video/Security (JL Audio, Alpine, Hertz/Audiosn, ARC Audio), Window/Tail Lamp Tint, Custom Wheels, Clear Shield, automotive upholstery and leather conversions, "All the Above!"
Matt-check out these deals: https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/m...ood-stuff.html
MCOR Automotive LLC
mcorautomotivellc@verizon.net
www.mcorautomotive.com
1635 Dale Mabry Hwy Ste 3
Lutz, FL 33548
(813) 362-5454
"TR Official 12V Shop"- Automotive Audio/Video/Security (JL Audio, Alpine, Hertz/Audiosn, ARC Audio), Window/Tail Lamp Tint, Custom Wheels, Clear Shield, automotive upholstery and leather conversions, "All the Above!"
I see no problems with it. Remember your inline fuses though at the battery and at the engine compartment (150 amps should do it on each end). If the 4 ga wire were to short say in the door area if the car were wrecked, you run the risk of turning the car into a big welder-massive fire, possible explosions.
Some don't deem it necessary, we do. I won't do a battery relocation here without it (or add second battery). I would rather pass on the job...
Some don't deem it necessary, we do. I won't do a battery relocation here without it (or add second battery). I would rather pass on the job...

Cool, just wanted to make sure that others thought the load would be OK over a 4ga line. Thanks!
__________________
LOGIC? You seriously want to invoke logic in a conversation about fake hijackings, missiles hitting the pentagon, and bombs planted throughout the world trade center? I thought it was a given that logic was checked at the door when entering one of these threads.
you should be fine, i like to use circuit breaker under hood and by battery in back, this way if it pops? and you figure out why, you can reset and you are not stranded looking for a fuse. the largest electrical draw will be from your starter,
Yes, good copper.
I used a circuit breaker once... till it "broke" too many times then REALLY broke. lol.
I'll stick to the fuses. The wire is run completely through grommets and after i build a carpeted box for the battery and mount it properly -- it should stay 100% put. I'll be fine.
Cool, thanks guys.

I'll stick to the fuses. The wire is run completely through grommets and after i build a carpeted box for the battery and mount it properly -- it should stay 100% put. I'll be fine.
Cool, thanks guys.
__________________
LOGIC? You seriously want to invoke logic in a conversation about fake hijackings, missiles hitting the pentagon, and bombs planted throughout the world trade center? I thought it was a given that logic was checked at the door when entering one of these threads.



Now there's some logic!