I currently have a Kinetik HC1200 and is wondering if I need a isolator/relay for it? When I got my battery installed, I didnt see him put in an isolator.
What type of isolator/relay is a good fit with this battery?

 

I've been running the same stinger 200 amp on my stuff for about 6 years now never had an issue with it...but all the ones I've seen have basically been the same thing...just a big ass relay. Its kind of a prefrence thing IMO. Its nice to have but dont necessarily need one. I'm sure someone will say its needed for some reason, but I've never had an issue on cars I didn't run it on

 

Isolators are only necessary if you play your system for long periods without the engine running/alternator charging the batteries. The isolator is wired into the ignition feed and is essentially a large solenoid that just disconnects the audio battery from the rest of the system when the key is not in the "run" position. This allows you to use your stereo (or whatever you have hooked up) as long as you want and even if you run the battery dead, once you turn the key on, it will tie that battery back to the regular charging system and main battery allowing the car to still start-and let the charging system recharge that drained battery again also.

We sell the PAC disconnect solenoid. We have had ZERO failures with this unit over the years. There are some cheaper versions out there but the point of having it is to keep from getting stranded. Why even bother installing it if you are going to use something that may fail?

Anyway, they are not as popular as they used to be. We end up using them more on our marine installs than anything. We use a few for the tailgating nuts and some of the highschoolers but other than that.

Below is the link to PAC's .pdf instruction manual on it. Maybe that will clear up some misconceptions about isolators...

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_072006.pdf

 

Thanks for the inputs

 

the isolator works a little different - it senses the battery that has lowest charge, while engine is running, and directs charing to that battery, yes it will work like mcor said but when engine running it ment for proper charging so you dont burn up the alt.

 

Seems like a good buy.
Is it a good option to do a big 3 too? Even with my stock alternator?

 

Yes do Big 3 even on stock stereo system. Ground upgrades never hurt and many cars have a poor stock ground setup.

 

I have an 07 camry..
How much will it cost me to do the big 3 and install the 200amp stinger relay?
Anybody on here can do it?

 

You can NEVER go wrong with a big three upgrade-one of the most ignored but important upgrades necessary when building a sound system. The engineers are getting worse and worse about putting smaller guage wiring under the hood now that so many items in the car use less electrical power (solid state relays, microchips, data based controllers, etc). But, amps are still the same power hogs they were many years ago and require a boost in available electrical power over what the factory system will provide without problems.

 

We'll see you Friday. Maybe if we have some time, we will take some pics of the install to clear up all the questions about the big 3 upgrade and the isolator installation in our shop subforum. This area seems to still be very misunderstood...