Questions about boxes
How is fiberboard in comparison to plywood for making boxes? (comparison pic found online)
Is a 5/8" vs. 3/4" box going to make any real difference to an audio beginner? I've got more 5/8 then 3/4, but I might be able to make the box out of 3/4" if it makes a reasonable sound difference.
And a third question, I have two Pyle 500W 4 ohm Blue Label subs that I trash picked because they are like new, some of you might remember me because of them
and I'm getting ready to make a box, just for one, for now anyways, just to play around with. No manufacturer recommendations found anywhere even on the internet because it's not supposed to come out of pyle's bandpass box (trashpicked bandpass box was screwed, trust me). I was going to do 12" square OD but any size recommendations are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Is a 5/8" vs. 3/4" box going to make any real difference to an audio beginner? I've got more 5/8 then 3/4, but I might be able to make the box out of 3/4" if it makes a reasonable sound difference.
And a third question, I have two Pyle 500W 4 ohm Blue Label subs that I trash picked because they are like new, some of you might remember me because of them
and I'm getting ready to make a box, just for one, for now anyways, just to play around with. No manufacturer recommendations found anywhere even on the internet because it's not supposed to come out of pyle's bandpass box (trashpicked bandpass box was screwed, trust me). I was going to do 12" square OD but any size recommendations are welcome. Thanks in advance. 
Particle board is basically wood chips glued and pressed together - very fragile and not very rigid or durable.
Fiber board is made up of wood fiber woven into tight bonds which is much stronger than particle board.
For anything over 1ft in length, it must be at least 3/4" or you will get flex which will cost you output. All wood is porous and as such will leak air, particle board will leak much more than MDF though.
That said, I'm pretty sure those pyle subs couldn't flex a cardboard box.
If you run out of 3/4" MDF, you can use 5/8" doubled up. I would never use particle board.
Fiber board is made up of wood fiber woven into tight bonds which is much stronger than particle board.
For anything over 1ft in length, it must be at least 3/4" or you will get flex which will cost you output. All wood is porous and as such will leak air, particle board will leak much more than MDF though.
That said, I'm pretty sure those pyle subs couldn't flex a cardboard box.
If you run out of 3/4" MDF, you can use 5/8" doubled up. I would never use particle board.
Last edited by Notladstyle; Jan 10, 2009 at 10:11 PM.
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The 5/8th would be fine for those subs. 2 cube sealed should be a solid box for them.
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MECP Certified.
Alarm: Viper 5200
HU: Stock
Active Set-Up
Tweets: Image Dyamics CD1pro mini horns
Mids: Sundown Neo Pro 8s
Amp: Kicker IX500.4 (2)
Sub Stage
Subs: (2) Dayton Audio 15" HF
Amp: Kicker IX1000.1
I would suggest at the very least doubling up on the 5/8". I only say that because I am QUITE sure that once you build it, and you run that "PYLE" subwoofer for a while, you will be itching for an upgrade. If you just double up on it or just make it 3/4" thick now, you will just be able to swap out for your new sub and return the PYLE to the trash where it was properly placed the first time. And not to sound sarcastic, but honestly, you will have as much in new MDF and other supplies in building a box as that PYLE sub is honestly worth. Honestly...
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Matt-check out these deals: https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/m...ood-stuff.html
MCOR Automotive LLC
mcorautomotivellc@verizon.net
www.mcorautomotive.com
1635 Dale Mabry Hwy Ste 3
Lutz, FL 33548
(813) 362-5454
"TR Official 12V Shop"- Automotive Audio/Video/Security (JL Audio, Alpine, Hertz/Audiosn, ARC Audio), Window/Tail Lamp Tint, Custom Wheels, Clear Shield, automotive upholstery and leather conversions, "All the Above!"
Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to buy some MDF soon.
I have a couple of those little plastic cups used for porting just laying around collecting dust. Should I make the box ported (normal box, not bandpass or anything)? Any advantages or disadvantages for doing so? Thanks.
I have a couple of those little plastic cups used for porting just laying around collecting dust. Should I make the box ported (normal box, not bandpass or anything)? Any advantages or disadvantages for doing so? Thanks.
DONT use the cups unless you listen to ragaaton all day and therefore do not mind the worlds worst sounding bass.
They are arbitrary 6" flanged ports which will do nothing but ruin your box and probably damage your subs unless you build the box's specs around the ports which would probably be beyond your abilities if this is your first box.
The other alternative is to modify the ports but again, first box...
They are arbitrary 6" flanged ports which will do nothing but ruin your box and probably damage your subs unless you build the box's specs around the ports which would probably be beyond your abilities if this is your first box.
The other alternative is to modify the ports but again, first box...
just make a sealed box, put them in, and prepare to be ready to upgrade! I'd also suggest building a proper box now, so that when you do upgrade you already have a good box to work with. 1 cube per sub sealed is a pretty good place to start.
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I won't use the 3" ports. Thanks for that advice.
I cut out a large cardboard box to give the sub a quick test. It was pretty funny. The box did in fact vibrate and shake a fair amount. Also just a little bass. My trunk shook but extremely little.
I cut out all the wood for my actual box and it all fits together pretty well, I also cut the subwoofer hole and the hole for the cup. Both came out pretty good. I'll work on it more later this week.
I cut out a large cardboard box to give the sub a quick test. It was pretty funny. The box did in fact vibrate and shake a fair amount. Also just a little bass. My trunk shook but extremely little.
I cut out all the wood for my actual box and it all fits together pretty well, I also cut the subwoofer hole and the hole for the cup. Both came out pretty good. I'll work on it more later this week.



