tampa - near anderson & waters

 

whats the name of the shop? when I used a test light none of the wires had any juice when the key wasnt in which is bad. then when the car is turned on the one showed full like it should and the other was very dim which was the one they told me had 3v. when 12v is added to the one wire showing low voltage my clock now is bright again. I know nobody wants to hear this but tomorrow i'm going to mess with it more testing things out before I take it somewhere. i'm a little stubburn and i like to figure things out on my own so i can understand why and know for the future. i hate when i dont understand something it makes me think about it until I understand it. some things do need to be taken to a proffesional and this depending on my tinkering tomorrow is probally going to end in one of them.

 

I'm all for doing stuff yourself (i never pay anyone for anything unless I don't have the tools or it requires very advanced skills) but you seem like the type who is too lazy to learn anything and too stubborn to listen to people who know anything.

This problem is very simple and very common. All you have to do it run three wires 2 feet from the ignition column to the stereo. It's not rocket science.

 

This is also why they sell the plug and play harness's to eliminate the problems of hard wiring a new radio in.

 

What 3 wires would that be?

I did buy a plug in harness it just snaps into what was there and converts it to snap into the head units harness. Thats not where the problems is, its the wires before that

 

nevermind my questions before I figured it out on my own and I have it all working perfectly

 

So what exactly did you find? This forum would be almost useless if members didn't post fixes to help those that may have the same problem in the future!

 

it was real simple and I should have tried it before but I wasnt thinking to good under my dashboard with the flu the past couple of days. I had fixed the problem with the head unit not turning on 2 weeks ago by running a wire from the accesory slots to the white and blue constant power wire that goes to the head and the clock which also keeps the memory. The problem was that only 1 or 2 accesory slots have power all the time, not all of them. The others are only when the ignition is on. I had it connected to one with the power only going through when the iginition is on rather than the constant. Just moved it over to the constant and everything was good. Clock works wasnt dim and held the time and the head unit saved the stations. Now to get the speakers in. I have some cutting and drilling. The side panels the opening for the stock speaker is too small so I have to cut it out some to fit the new speakers and their grills. Then the rear deck i will be using 6x9" speakers rather than the 6.5" so I have to make new mounts. Then wire the amp and subs up. Now for installing speakers places charge a fortune! Especially the amp and subs and most wont touch the rear deck and modify it for me.

 

Cool, glad you got it fixed. Next question, why would you want to install 6X9's in the rear deck? Arguably, you can get just as strong midrange sound and quality out of a 6.5" speaker set as you can the 6X9's. In true audio systems, rear speakers are really just used for fill anyway and most all of the staging comes from the front speakers (this is where professionals spend the largest percentage of time planning and tuning).

This is your car and your choice but I would suggest just installing a great set of 6.5 replacements in the rear deck then concentrating your efforts on installing a really good set of 6.5" seperates (components) in the front area. Just my two cents...

 

The 6x9 going in the rear deck are 3 way speakers so they cover a lot and sound great. They have a little more to them. The 6.5" in the front doors have a tweeter also. Basically i'm in the middle of the sound except for the bass in the trunk. My seat is as far back as i will go in the car so i'm probally equal distance from ear to front and rear speakers. Anything is better than the 15watt stockers that were dry rotted lol I had fun blowing the stock speakers. Hooked them up to a amp and just blasted bass for songs and they shreded themselves apart paper was flying everywhere it was great