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relocated battery and grounding kit ?

Old Nov 15, 2008 | 04:21 PM
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Default relocated battery and grounding kit ?

First a little info car is 1990 mitsubishi eclipse,
all wiring is 0g
Big 3 done
Battery(Odyssey PC925) relocated to the back and the main battery ground wire is about 2 feet away,which is grounded to the frame with a bolt nut and washer paint scraped off to metal etc.

Question:
I have a second 0g wire that is running from the battery to front of car which goes into a distribution block that I'm using as my earthing kit source.this also has my ground wire for the starter.Do I need to have this wire running from back to front? or seeing how I have the battery grounded to the chassis,could I just take about 2-3 ft of the the 0g and bolt it to the chassis/frame somewhere under the engine bay and still get the same results?
I was under the impression that in order to have a good ground you should have it connected to the battery.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 04:52 PM
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If I understand your question correctly, you are asking if it is necessary to run another ground cable from your relocated battery in the back all the way up to the engine compartment? If that is the question, the answer is NO. BMW, Mercedes Benz, Lincoln, Maserati, etc don't do it so neither should you. Your car's body is one big metal ground (wire).

You do however have to run a ground strap from the body to the engine block as your starter, alternator, and many engine sensors need this ground connection to complete their current flow cycle back to the battery.

Make sure also that your ground from the battery to the body in the rear is REALLY good. No paint whatsoever between the ground and the terminal and the terminal must be tight. In race cars and 4X4's, I have seen people go as far as tacking the ground terminal to the frame/body with a welder just to ensure that it remains tight even through bumps and time.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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OK that is what i was wanting to know

Originally Posted by MCOR
If I understand your question correctly, you are asking if it is necessary to run another ground cable from your relocated battery in the back all the way up to the engine compartment? If that is the question, the answer is NO.

You do however have to run a ground strap from the body to the engine block as your starter, alternator, and many engine sensors need this ground connection to complete their current flow cycle back to the battery.

For this what would be a good spot to ground it at? As most threaded holes in a car are not very good spots for grounds as most are just barely tack welded on. I guess the best thing would be to drill a hole and scrap paint,Then just use ring terminals to connect the wires that need grounding to that spot
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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I always use either the seatbelt or the seat bolts as they are both usually threaded through the primary frame.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Notladstyle
I have the main battery ground all set,I was needing info on the second wire coming off the negative terminal.

heres a diagram of what it looks like:



actual pic of dis block

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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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So the distro block runs from the chassis to the starter and to the engine block?

sound good. what else are you thinking you need?
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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Basically yes. the 1) 0g wire is running from the battery to the distro block and then all the other grounds are attached to the distro block.

What i was asking is do i need to have the 1) 0g wire thats running from the battery in the back all the way up front to the distro block.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 03:55 AM
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Nota seatbelt bolts ? really ? been there, done that after doin a bunch of those found out that really isnt a good ground. i prefer bare metal and self tapping screws
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jermwarfare
Nota seatbelt bolts ? really ? been there, done that after doin a bunch of those found out that really isnt a good ground. i prefer bare metal and self tapping screws
We prefer seat belt mounting bolts also but I agree-we have been bit for one reason or another by a bad ground at these points. Never can find a good rhyme or reason for this. Then we use self tappers and lock washers also as a backup if the seatbelt stuff doesn't work.

Problem with self tappers is they sometimes come loose or strip. We have had the best luck with actual bolt headed self tapping sheet metal screws and lockwashers from Home Depot. I have yet to have one of those strip out or come loose.

On really big systems where big bucks are paid on the labor side of the install, we still tack the terminal to the car's sheet metal with the welder after it is bolted in (especially if the ground is located somewhere that will not be easily accessible after the build-ie: under fake floor, fiberglass enclosure, spare tire well, etc).
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