So how do you determine if your vehicle can handle the audio load you are applying to it? Any sites I can be pointed to that can show me how to go about setting up the power needed to run multiple amps. I hear about people adding extra batteries for just their system and upgrading alternators and want to know how to determine when it is needed.

 

take the combined RMS power of all the amps, add 15% divide by 12 and you have an estimated amperage.

Check the current capacity for the wiring you are using and check the stock alternator output.

Generally, by design an alternator doesn't have more than 20% of overhead after providing power to the motor and accessory functions so if your stereo pulls more than 20% of the alternator's rated output, you will overdraw to the battery and eventually kill it unless you limit your indulgence in the audio delight.


... Or just do like me, buy a red top and throw your car on a charger at night.

 

maybe we can figure it out for you - what kind of car?, what amps and what loads are on them? what gauge wire? What is your budget?

 

the big 3 upgrade is a good start if you think you need to beef up your electrical.

 

Truck is a 2006 Toyota Tacoma. I did buy the tow package which already upgraded the alternator and added an oil cooler, but I don't know how much of an upgrade it was from the stock alternator.

I am currently running a McIntosh amp rated at 50 x 4. The fronts are running all my mids and highs (stock speakers for now). The backs is bridged to power my two 10" Kicker CompVR subs. I am going to add the Power Acoustik A1800DB to power my two subs, but won't be setting the gain very high at all since I know the boxes for the subs aren't setup right anyway. I'll see if I can find the amperage of the Alternator in my manual when I go to lunch.

 

even at best case that might be a 35 amp draw so im gonna say you are safe without even a big3 upgrade (although it never hurts and it's near free)

 

i agree - big three - maybe a cap

 

For most applications, I use 2-3 times fuse rating < alternator rating. For example, if you have a 150 amp alternator, as long as your fusing doesn't exceed 450 amps, you don't need a bigger alternator. Big 3 is always a good idea. And if you like to play your system without the motor running, then an extra battery will let you do that longer. Skip the cap...they are basically useless.

This is for the normal, music type listener. If you do lots of sine waves, competitions, etc., this might not apply.

Toby

 

Nope, this is for everyday listening and I never play with the car off. Thanks for the input. I'll keep my eye on things once I get the new amp installed.