I have a budget minded setup that i recently installed. Amp is a Power Acoustik 2ohm stable 2 channel amp that I have bridged. Subs are also Power Acoustik DVC 2ohm subs, 2 subs total. I have the subs wired in series/parallel as shown in the pic below. Everytime I turn the sound louder and/or increase base via the remote bass control, after about 30 seconds the red protection led on the side of the amp turns on, and the amp shuts down. If i turn the car off and turn it back on the amp works again.

I don't think the amp is overheating since this happens even after the car has cooled off at night and started in the morning. I'm leaning towards incorrectly wired speakers/wrong impedance. Currently the subs are wired first in series to have 4ohm per sub, and then in parallel to have 2ohm mono bridged at the amp. Would it make a difference to wire the subs first in parallel, so that each sub is 1ohm, and then in series to have 2ohms. I'm going to try running the amp using both channels at 4ohms instead of bridging at 2ohms, next to see if this continues. Any other ideas?

 

Which amp are you using? Most A/B circuitry amps are only 2ohm stable in stereo operation. By bridging the amp, it becomes 4ohm stable mono. Without knowing the model # I cant say for sure though.

Unfortunately, if its only 2ohm stable stereo, you dont have any good options.
Unbridging and running each parallel will give you 1ohm so you would have to run series for 4ohm load on each channel. To run the amp bridged, your only options are .5, 2 and 8ohm loads.

My 2 cents, start looking for class D <2ohm stable amp....

 

I checked the owner manual and it says it's "2 ohm stereo stable." Is there a difference between 2ohm stable "stereo" and 2ohm stable "mono?" Amp part number is ts1920-2. Here's a link to the Power Acoustik website.

1 - Home

 

the quick usual run-by question, do you have the gains/bass boost set all the way up on the amp? if so, turn them down down down.



The car being warm doesnt necessarily correlate to the amp's heating up. The trunk temperatures are usually at a constant degree much cooler than the rest of the car. You should check to see if you have anything obstructing the amp's vent ports.

 

check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!
check your grounds!!!!!

from your amp to ground
and up grade your stock battery to ground!!

 

2ohm stereo is STEREO not mono. Your amp is going into protect because the impedance is too low. wire the speakers in stereo.

It may also be the extra current draw is knocking the voltage down too low which will also trigger protect but I would change hte impedance fist as the amp will burn out eventually anyways.

 

Gains and bass boost are set about 8/10, and then i'll adjust the bass via the remote. Checked the grounds and they are secure. Amp is mounted on top of the sub box, and has plenty of clearance around the heat sink. I rewired the subs/amp to using 2 channels with each sub in series at 4ohms and everything works fine now. Even sounds better when i turn it up since the headlights aren't flashing with every bass note anymore.

 

Ya i dind't know this, otherwise i would have gotten an 2 ohm mono class d amp instead of this one...