Maybe asking about repairing an amp instead? Dont get pissy when you ask a roudabout question and dont get the answer?

Hey guys my speakers wont work?


Oh yeah I knew they were all blown but I wanted to know what size they were to replace them.

 

These were the questions.

There's nothing roundabout about them.

The responses were all to make sure I was getting power to the amplifier, rather than to explain what might have happened during the accident to cause the amplifier to get "f*cked" and how I can test for the broken component.

This:
is not analogous to the questions I asked.

 

Yeah, well sorry...there's not too many electrical engineers that frequent the boards who are willing to troubleshoot some kid's Kenwood amp. Doubt any of these company's service departments would be charging outrageous repair prices if it was that easy. If you find someone though, please share with the rest of the community...because if you would have done a search you'd find that similar questions have been asked a million times before.

 

Its possible to repair but its not a swap the fuse out type job. you need a board solder and access to proprietary parts.

If you want to ensure that the problem is the turn on circuit, first check the outer power fuses, then open it up and trace the remote lead until it reaches a small black chip. That chip will have several outputs that check for protect mode conditions before sending power to the transistors that supply power to the amp circutry.

Check that you have power at the lead that supplies power to the circuit.
Check that there is continuity between the RCA points and the 1. parallel resistor across the leads 2. the choke coil(spooled wire around some type or core) and to the RCA plug.

Also check the primary choke coil which is really big copper coil of wire that filters noise from the power line - they vary as to their configuration so I couldnt tell you what to look for.

Ensure there is NOT continuity between the gnd and the RCA leads pos leads.

Back to the turn on circuit:
Check each terminal - there should be one lead that shows 12v to the turn on relay(usually a transistor to prevent noise), the rest should have either no power or consistent voltages as they are protect mode leads.

As you can see its not an easy process to diagnose board problems and this barely scrapes the surface.

Some amps such as newer JL and the kenwood SX amps even have binary turn on signals which cannot be read with a multimeter. Your best bet is to send it in under warranty.

 

Yeah and instead of coming right out and saying it in the first post, or evenin your first reply, you waited till dalton attempted twice before you mention the board, my mistake. Heaven forbid you ask the question you want answered in the first post.

 

You all are being dicks.

I asked a question and did not give anyone sh*t about anything. You're b*tching for the sake of b*tching. Nonetheless...

The FIRST POST I MADE had the FIRST QUESTION I POSED. You're just being an asshole.

The second question was my way of reframing the first question because, despite the seemingly straightforward nature of my original post, it was not clear to the only individual in this thread who has responded to my question directly.

Again, I described the problem accurately and asked the appropriate question. And, again, you're just being an asshole.

I did a search. I did not find an answer to my question. Therefore, I asked the question and hoped that someone on the board might recognize the problem and, possibly, the typical cause.
For example, if someone's car is overheating and pushing fluid from the coolant reservoir, my first suggestion would be to check the radiator cap, because a cap that doesn't seal properly will cause that problem.
I assumed this might be a similar situation in a different context. If it's not, then it's not. Awesome.

People charge outrageous repair prices for mechanical repairs, but I find mechanical work generally quite simple. People have specialized skills that they use to posture their services on others without these skills. Price reflects demand.

Further, I'm not sure what your attitude is about. I've not given you one. I only took umbrage with the " " comment from GradeA_TireFryer, implying that it was obvious that the amplifier is broken and I should have been aware of that before asking the questions I asked.
I agree it is obvious that amplifier is broken, and my posts reflect that. My questions are, essentially, all things considered, what component within might be broken. So, to the comment " ," I reply, "No sh*t!"

Thanks, though, to NoTLaDStyle for at least attempting to help me out.

 

Holy shit man, either you have an awesome vocabulary or you are really good with a thesaurus. sorry about the misunderstanding

 

There's no need to apologize. Apparently I was not describing the situation in an accessible manner. Thanks for you help.

I'm inclined to believe that I probably arced the amplifier somewhere. If the amplifier case made contact with the speaker's +/- terminals, could that burn an internal component without blowing a fuse?

 

ok dick, if you want to fix it your self try this http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-829-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thanks. But, my name's not Dick, it's Cory.